Wiring plan for Accessories

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by brianb920

My switches are only $12.99 so not much more than a $5 relay and they say they are rated for 20 amps. The only one that pulls some amperage is the stereo amp and that is max 15 amps, so will keep my fingers crossed that the switch holds up.

Questions for anyone familiar with the Cartsunlimited 12V DC reducer (Scotty B?), I assume the line that runs from the keyswitch to the reducer shuts it down when the key is turned off. So, I wouldn't need a switch to turn off my reducer then, correct?

Yes, you can wire it to be on and off with the key. You can see in the photo that I used a different key switch with mine. I wanted to be able to run my 12v accessories without the key on (no chance of someone, or the dog, accidentally hitting the pedal and moving the cart) so I installed the switch. I paid around $50 per switch, so wasn't taking any chances.

[brianb920]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Correct, so You need to make sure your radio does not need constant power for memory presets, etc..

I'm good, it's a stereo amp with built in bluetooth, no receiver. only radio is from my phone / Spotify / Sirius App. Don't even listen to radio in my car.

[brianb920]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

Yes, you can wire it to be on and off with the key. You can see in the photo that I used a different key switch with mine. I wanted to be able to run my 12v accessories without the key on (no chance of someone, or the dog, accidentally hitting the pedal and moving the cart) so I installed the switch. I paid around $50 per switch, so wasn't taking any chances.

Any suggestions or guide on which wire (location, color, etc) for the switched power line on the key? I haven't started digging in there yet and figured I would see if there was some quick help. Do you connect into behind the dash or is there an easier location to tap into this line in the battery compartment?

Also, may consider a separate switch to do with as you say. The only issue with that is if someone doesn't turn that switch off and only turns the key off which leaves the reducer powered. Not a huge deal as all accessories have their own switch, but something I will think about.

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by brianb920

Any suggestions or guide on which wire (location, color, etc) for the switched power line on the key? I haven't started digging in there yet and figured I would see if there was some quick help. Do you connect into behind the dash or is there an easier location to tap into this line in the battery compartment?

Also, may consider a separate switch to do with as you say. The only issue with that is if someone doesn't turn that switch off and only turns the key off which leaves the reducer powered. Not a huge deal as all accessories have their own switch, but something I will think about.

Hmm. Ive got print outs of the service manual, with all of the wiring diagrams, but my cart is a 2001 and I don't want to screw you up by telling you the wrong color. Hopefully one of the knowledgeable guys will jump in here soon but you can pull the switch and check for continuity with your dvm. Originally, my only switched accessory was the headlights. That was the wire connected to the pin that activated on the first turn of the key. I would consider wiring the reducer outside of the key. My switches are illuminated, so it's a bit tough to leave them on, but I don't think the reducer draws much when it's not powering anything.

[brianb920]

Another question I have on the wiring is what is the preferred method of tapping into a line?

See a lot of people against scotchlok type connectors and others use them all over.

What alternatives is there other than soldering?

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by brianb920

Another question I have on the wiring is what is the preferred method of tapping into a line?

See a lot of people against scotchlok type connectors and others use them all over.

What alternatives is there other than soldering?

There's different thoughts on this all over the Internet. However, most people will tell you not to use any of those quick type connectors. If you're not comfortable soldering, crimp on connectors will work well as long as you crimp them properly. I used the "western union splice" and solder then covered with shrink tube, but that splice seemed like it would hold up well without the solder; especially if you cover it with adhesive lined shrink.

[brianb920]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

There's different thoughts on this all over the Internet. However, most people will tell you not to use any of those quick type connectors. If you're not comfortable soldering, crimp on connectors will work well as long as you crimp them properly. I used the "western union splice" and solder then covered with shrink tube, but that splice seemed like it would hold up well without the solder; especially if you cover it with adhesive lined shrink.

Western union splice is fine for two wires, but how do you tap into an existing line? That also doesnt allow for use of adhesive lined shrink.

Other than the clamp connectors, it seems like it would be a pain to tie in without soldering.

i use Closed-End Crimp Connectors

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

i use Closed-End Crimp Connectors

Crash, those look pretty handy. Where do you get them?

e bay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191256776931...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT