Wiring diagram

[Bertrrr]

Thanks a Ton , I will try and check all the wiring and connections to see where the problem lies.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

This is what I get when I enter a serial number of "1456356"

Make: Workhorse & MPT
Type: Electric 36 V
Model: Electric Workhorse 1000
Year: 2002

It is a series drive with a Curtis 1204 or 1205 controller and a ITS throttle system.

The attached schematic isn't specifically for a 2002 Workhorse 1000, but it ought to be mighty close.

Me too, now that the coffee's kicked in. I musta fat-fingered the s/n.

[Bertrrr]

How can I test my controller ? the attached diagram is what I have, none of the wiring diagrams seem to relate to this set up . I got the solenonide to click by taking the reed switch out of service, now I need to test the solenoid and / or Controler to see what's what.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bertrrr

How can I test my controller ? the attached diagram is what I have, none of the wiring diagrams seem to relate to this set up . I got the solenonide to click by taking the reed switch out of service, now I need to test the solenoid and / or Controler to see what's what.

The wiring diagram you've drawn and the pictures of your controller attached to your post#4, appear to be identical to the schematic I attached to my post#9. There might be some differences in where the wires from the charge receptacle are landed and possibly the color coding of the control wires, but EZGO used the same heavy-duty series drive in many different body style carts over many production years.

The solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed, so the problem is in the hiigh current circuit.

Lift the rear wheels off the ground and put on jackstands so the half ton cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone or something.

Measure pack voltage. It ought to be around 38.2V when fully charged.

Connect DVM's negative test lead to controller's B- terminal and positive test lead to controller's M- terminal.

Press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click and you should have 38.2V between the controller's B- and M- terminals.

If not, the is an open somewhere in the high current cables, connections or contacts. Most likely suspect is the F/R contacts.

If you do get 38.2V, press pedal to floor and it ought to decrease to Zero Volts. If it doesn't, either the controller or throttle input to controller is bad.

[Bertrrr]

Thank you , I now have a plan of attack to try and trace this problem to see what is bad. Is there a way to test the solenoid as well ,
thanks again.

[JohnnieB]

It is subtle, but the solenoid test is included in the B- to M- voltage test.

If the solenoid coil and associated circuitry was good, the solenoid wouldn't click when the pedal is pushed.
If the solenoid's high current contacts weren't closing or had excessive resistance, you would get about 5V less than full pack voltage if the pre-charge resistor was installed or Zero volts if it wasn't.