36v to 12v reducer problems

[jhop869986]

I have a 98 EZGO TXT 36v cart. I bought a 36v to 12v reducer and attempted to install a radio on my cart. The reducer has 36v + and - and 12v + and - .. there are no other wires. I found the two batteries that complete the series.. hooked up the + and - connection from the 36v reducer side to the + and - on the two batteries. I then ran my + and - from the 12v side to my radio. I also ran a wire from the radio side power wire to the key switch on my cart to kill the power when the cart isn't in use. Long story short everything was fine until I put the cart away to charge and woke up to my smoke alarm going off in the garage.. I know I should have used a fuse in this install, and will at next attempt...the reducer had a complete nuclear meltdown. Can someone tell me where I went wrong. I thought I read somewhere that some people hook up the negative on the 36v side of the reducer to the B- on the controller? Is that where I went wrong? Thanks for any advice that you can give me.

[marianol]

I think that what went wrong was that you wired the accessories wire from the radio to the ignition key. The switch in the key is in the 36v side of the pack.
The 36v and​ the 12v circuits have to be independent, and a fuse box on the 12v side is a must.
In mine I added a simple single pole switch to power the acc. cable on the radio.
I'll add a picture later on my phone now.

Just my 2 cents an expert will come and give the final verdict.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[scottyb]

Lucky it was no worse ! Now get a reducer with a 5th wire designed to connect to the key switch that turns the reducer unit on/off with the key. Or even one with a fuse panel like this.
Like this >

[JohnnieB]

It could be simply that the 36V to 12V reducer didn't like the 45V or so that a 36V battery pack climbs to while on charge.

Hopefully, you didn't cross the 36V at the keyswitch with the 12V to the radio. If you did, the radio may also be destined for Mount Trashmore.

Connecting the -36V wire to the main negative terminal on the battery pack or to the B- terminal on the controller doesn't make any difference, they are effectively the same point electrically.

Most people with the type voltage reducer you described, put a on/off switch as well as a fuse in the 36V input to the reducer and fuses in the all of the 12 circuits. If a higher wattage reducer is used, the switch contacts have to be rated for the amps it will draw, or use the switch to control a relay.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by jhop869986

I have a 98 EZGO TXT 36v cart. I bought a 36v to 12v reducer and attempted to install a radio on my cart. The reducer has 36v + and - and 12v + and - .. there are no other wires. I found the two batteries that complete the series.. hooked up the + and - connection from the 36v reducer side to the + and - on the two batteries. I then ran my + and - from the 12v side to my radio. I also ran a wire from the radio side power wire to the key switch on my cart to kill the power when the cart isn't in use. Long story short everything was fine until I put the cart away to charge and woke up to my smoke alarm going off in the garage.. I know I should have used a fuse in this install, and will at next attempt...the reducer had a complete nuclear meltdown. Can someone tell me where I went wrong. I thought I read somewhere that some people hook up the negative on the 36v side of the reducer to the B- on the controller? Is that where I went wrong? Thanks for any advice that you can give me.

Are you saying you hooked up the 36 volt reducer wires to only 12 volts? I may be reading this wrong, and it didn't cause the smoke.

[jhop869986]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Are you saying you hooked up the 36 volt reducer wires to only 12 volts? I may be reading this wrong, and it didn't cause the smoke.

I hooked it up to the two batteries that complete the series, used my volt meter to find the two that read 36v

[jhop869986]

is the best/easier solution to buy a reducer with a 5th wire for turning on and off or just slap a standalone 12V battery in there and run it off of that? I would really like to keep the space under the seat for a 42v conversion one day and not add a battery..but waking up from a deep sleep at 3am with the security company calling me about the fire alarm going off in my garage is no fun either. Curious about what option you guys use.

[scottyb]

I find I forget to recharge the 12v battery and it fades when I need it most... Murphy's law.
A small DC reducer with keyswitch activation is a no brainer. Install it and forget it.

[jhop869986]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I find I forget to recharge the 12v battery and it fades when I need it most... Murphy's law.
A small DC reducer with keyswitch activation is a no brainer. Install it and forget it.

Just purchased what I needed from you :)

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by jhop869986

Just purchased what I needed from you :)