2005 precedent IQ slow in grass and on ANY incline.

[sweber]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Those 2 batteries that are low, you need to hook your automotive style charger up to each of those batteries one at a time and try to charge them separately. Do this only after you have charged the entire pack. If you can get those 2 to come up I thing you will be good.

And that is low. You want to achieve ~50.9 volts 12 hours after the charge has completed.

ok, I will try that. thank you.

[sweber]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Those 2 batteries that are low, you need to hook your automotive style charger up to each of those batteries one at a time and try to charge them separately. Do this only after you have charged the entire pack. If you can get those 2 to come up I thing you will be good.

And that is low. You want to achieve ~50.9 volts 12 hours after the charge has completed.

Ok I had the low battery on a charger by it’s self for a while and only got 11.1 on it. Looks like I’m looking for a new set of batteries. Also the battery light comes on, then goes off. Then I let off peddle and it come back on again. No flash just constant. I read in the manual that it can indicates a Drop in voltage.
I’m going to search the battery section next but why does everyone replace all their batteries. Can you just replace the bad one?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by sweber

Ok I had the low battery on a charger by it’s self for a while and only got 11.1 on it. Looks like I’m looking for a new set of batteries. Also the battery light comes on, then goes off. Then I let off peddle and it come back on again. No flash just constant. I read in the manual that it can indicates a Drop in voltage.
I’m going to search the battery section next but why does everyone replace all their batteries. Can you just replace the bad one?

The light is coming on because your charge is less than 90%.

It is only a general practice or more industrially termed "Best Practice" to do them all at one time so they are all the same age, condition, type and style. If your batteries are not too old or shot and/or the funding is not there, then the next best recommended practice is to purchase a "good used" battery of similar type and condition. Just like the old chain scenario, your pack will only be as strong as your weakest battery. If all my other batteries are good and not shot, I would by one good used battery and make it work until they all went and I purchased a new complete set. For example, mine were 7 years old in June. If I have a failure, I will probably replace the pack because I know I am getting close to their life cycle, although they are still working great at this time.

[sweber]

turns out the batteries were 4 years old and I replaced all of them and we now have a new (to us) club car. Completely stock and runs great. I did instal a battery meter just because i like to know where the batteries are before the light comes on or the car stops. Thank you guys for all the tips. Looking forward to surfing around the forum to see what everyone else has and did to their buggies. We don't plan on doing anything other than cruzing around campgrounds on ours, so this is perfect. I will be interested to see how this car does on some of the hilly campgrounds around our area.
thanks again

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by sweber

turns out the batteries were 4 years old and I replaced all of them -snip-
thanks again

Be sure to break them in correctly as that will help correctly season them and supply you a good long life cycle. See attached.

[sweber]

yes, thank you for that. I will follow those.