86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

[bcontento]

thanks for the wiring diagram link! I missed that.

It is very possible the cart wiring was messed up. Like I said, the PO installed a field shortening circuit which I've now removed. I did put everything back the way it was (without the field shortening circuit) and based on the wiring diagrams, it's all connected correctly.

The F&R micro switch is brand new with the new HD FR switch from Scotty's.

I wasn't clicking the solenoids in N, just operating the throttle to hear the speed limit microswitches click on in sequence. The solenoids were clicking with power applied.

As it sits right now (or before I removed everything), it would spark in between gears (between N and F and between N and R) but not once fully in gear. Could the key switch itself be bad?

[Sergio]

You should not be running the motor at full speed with the wheels off the ground,

Series motors have no speed regulation and the motor will self-destruct if allowed to run "unloaded".

With foot OFF the pedal and the FNR in Neutral, turn the key ON, do You hear any solenoids clicks at this time?

Next, measure the voltage between pack negative battery post and the buss bar that connects all of the solenoid big posts, do You get any voltage?

[bcontento]

Originally Posted by Sergio

With foot OFF the pedal and the FNR in Neutral, turn the key ON, do You hear any solenoids clicks at this time?

Next, measure the voltage between pack negative battery post and the buss bar that connects all of the solenoid big posts, do You get any voltage?

I will get the batteries back in place and test that out tonight.

[joesam]

Just a reminder Sergio - he's got a 36V (partly modified) cart with 48V batteries - he may be slamming OEM 36V solenoids with 48V.

[bcontento]

Originally Posted by joesam

Just a reminder Sergio - he's got a 36V (partly modified) cart with 48V batteries - he may be slamming OEM 36V solenoids with 48V.

correct! with that in mind, if I do want to replace the solenoid bank, should I be switching to 48v solenoids or "better" 36v ones?

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by bcontento

correct! with that in mind, if I do want to replace the solenoid bank, should I be switching to 48v solenoids or "better" 36v ones?

No need to change the Solenoids (unless they are bad).

All you need to do is to move the positive wire that goes to the speed box, currently connected to the FNR bottom left tab named "micro-switches" in the wiring diagram to the battery post that measures +36v from pack negative.

That will activate the Solenoids with +36v.

[joesam]

He can only find 32V or 40v from his battery pack....no?

[bcontento]

Originally Posted by joesam

He can only find 32V or 40v from his battery pack....no?

i was just thinking the same thing. Should I just use 40v then? Forgive my ignorance, but how to identify the 40v post? which terminals of my voltage tester to which battery posts?

[Sergio]

Oops, missed that since most folks add 2 additional 6v batteries when converting those carts to +48v.

I would use +32v to activate the Solenoid since most brands require less than 80% rated voltage to close (the albrights only need a maximum of 70%).

Set Your meter to 200v DC setting.

Put the negative probe on the pack negative battery post.

Measure each battery positive post in series starting at that one, the voltage should increase by 8.5v or so for each battery post you go up in the Series.

Once you find the post that reads 32v nominal (actually around 34v), just disconnect that wire from the FNR and move it there.

[bcontento]

I hear no clicking when I turn the key on. I measure the voltage from negative post on battery one to the main bus bar on the solenoids and I have over 20 Volts. For some reason I think that that is a problem, no?

I think I have a solenoid that is sticking. Now when I put it in gear the cart moves regardless of key position or throttle.

What's next? And if I fail to say it enough I really really appreciate it!