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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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03-05-2018, 07:42 AM | #11 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 147
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Re: 2012 Precedent battery (?) issue
My 8 year old crown batteries aren’t that low. That’s the voltage mine hits while going uphill (and my batteries are pretty much shot).
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03-05-2018, 01:00 PM | #12 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: near Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,510
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Re: 2012 Precedent battery (?) issue
Quote:
It sounds like a battery problem but it could also be a battery charger problem. Often one battery can fail which will pull down the battery pack voltage since they are connected in series. At rest, take the battery pack voltage again and each individual battery voltage. Compare it to the attached chart to determine each battery's state of charge. In a healthy pack, all batteries should be fully charged and voltages should be within a point or two of each other. If you don't see any big differences between battery voltages, I would checking the functionality of your charger by putting the battery pack back on charge and monitoring the voltages (and amperages if you charger is equipped with a meter) during charging. During a 48 volt pack charging, you should be seeing voltages from ~58 to 62 volts during the final stages of charge. When charging is finished, the pack voltage will slowly drop and should stabilize over 12 to 24 period to that of a fully charged pack of ~50.9 volts (or higher). At the 49.1 volts that you reported after charging (I assume it was right after charging ???), either your batteries are not accepting a proper charge or you charger is not functioning properly. You might also need to load test your batteries but best to first report the results of the above. What is the make and amp hour rating (20 hr rate) of your batteries? Date stamp details are excellent information too. What is the make and model of your charger? |
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03-11-2018, 01:29 PM | #13 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 5
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Re: 2012 Precedent battery (?) issue
Ok, finally got my father in law over to pull a battery since I am still out of town. They are Crown CR-150 8 volt 150 AH (20 hour) batteries manufactured in October 2016, so I'm assuming they should be good. With the low voltage reading after supposedly being fully charged, I am now thinking it may be the charger. It is a Club Car Power Drive 3, but it looks pretty old.
Another question... is it normal for everything but the motor to work without the key on? All lights, turn signals, and gauges work without the key. |
03-12-2018, 09:27 PM | #14 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: 2012 Precedent battery (?) issue
Quote:
1. No reducer and the lights etc are being run from one or two batteries (they may be running from 2 batteries using 16V). 2. A 16V-12V reducer running from 2 batteries and not through the key. 3. A 48V-12V reducer running straight from the pack and not through the key or the OBC. Any of the above scenarios has the potential to damage the battery pack. The first two will unbalance the pack by running down a couple of the batteries compared with the others. The third option will take energy from the pack without the OBC knowing so the OBC will not run the charger sufficiently to replace that energy. If you are running lights and other accessories, especially any that have "dark" current (in other words are pulling power all the time to run memories etc) then your reducer set-up and battery maintenance schedule should take all of that into consideration. As ThreeCW said you need to measure the voltages of both the pack and the individual batteries to know what is going on. Charge the batteries and take the readings, let the cart sit for ~12hrs without use and take the readings again. Check out whether you have a reducer and where it is connected. Try disconnecting the reducer (pull the reducer positive from the battery) and do the charge and voltage measuring again to see if it makes a difference. If it does you might have some dark current pulling power all the time. If you have a reducer, connect the +48V through the "cold" side of the on-off key (the side that has power only when the key is on) and connect the negative (-48V) to the black cable with the yellow bullet connector behind the batteries. That will ensure that the OBC knows how much power it is pulling. If your accessories pull a reasonable amount of power then consider using a 48V relay or a reducer with a "trigger" wire to make sure you're not pulling too many amps through the on-off switch. |
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04-07-2018, 07:25 AM | #15 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 4
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Re: 2012 Precedent battery (?) issue
The only real way to know is to load test each battery. You can charge up batteries and they look fine, but when you put a load on them they can drop off quickly. Most garages have load testers or you can get one from harbor freight.
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04-07-2018, 07:29 AM | #16 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 6,539
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Re: 2012 Precedent battery (?) issue
The Harbor Freight load testers don’t pull nearly as many Amps as the cart when it’s running. My cheap HF tester only pulls 50 Amps on 6V. Use the cart as your load tester.
Get a multimeter with alligator clips and put them on your pack positive and negative and see what the voltage drop is when you hit the pedal. You can do the individual batteries that way too. Luke Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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