High amps damage F/R switch

[wellhereitis]

So i sometimes use the golf cart on my farm to pull/move things. Recently we pulled some small hay feeders a few dozen feet and then the cart stopped going in forward, only reverse. I diagnosed the problem as the switch, found the copper bolt in the 6 o clock position had recessed into the switch body plastic due to overheating, likely due to high amp draw. I got the bolt out, managed to get it to stick back out of the recess by cutting some card stock and putting it under the bolt head before reassembling back into the switch. Cart runs fine now but i know that it is not likely a long term solution. I've read that there are F/R switches which can handle higher amperage available for TXT carts from a member on here possibly? How can i find out more about these switches? Good idea, bad idea?

[Sideways]

I upgraded to the SW202 reversing contactor from Scottyb (site sponsor) when I did my 36v to 48v upgrade on my 94 Medalist a few years ago and could not be happier.

There is a 36v and 48v version.
https://www.cartsunlimited.net/rever...ontactors.html

[Volt_Ampere]

It's a combination of high amps and poor connection that causes the destructive heat.

[wellhereitis]

Originally Posted by Sideways

I upgraded to the SW202 reversing contactor from Scottyb (site sponsor) when I did my 36v to 48v upgrade on my 94 Medalist a few years ago and could not be happier.

There is a 36v and 48v version.
https://www.cartsunlimited.net/rever...ontactors.html

Would you by any chance be able to send me a list of everything you bought, minus the 2 additional batteries, to convert from 36v to 48v?

[scottyb]

48 volts produces more power while using less amperage thus reducing the heat in all of the system components including the motor.
For 48v operation you will need a 48v controller, solenoid, 48v batteries (6/8v or 8/6v) or lithium and a 48v charger.

In my time as a mobile cart tech I found many 36v carts that habitually burned up F&R switches. Most of these carts were used to feed animals on hills or pull loads. This was frustrating for the client and the tech. The big reversing contactor seems to hold up much better in these carts.
However it is best to find the source of the problem and try to relieve some of the cause as well as beefing up the device.
No F&R device is guaranteed not to be destroyed. Golf Carts were not engineered to pull anything, the cart must be modified if this is the intended use.

[Sideways]

Originally Posted by wellhereitis

Would you by any chance be able to send me a list of everything you bought, minus the 2 additional batteries, to convert from 36v to 48v?

It's been a few years but I went with
6 8volt batteries
Alltrax controller
400amp solenoid
2 gauge battery/motor cable set
SW202 reversing contactor
48v to 12v reducer (for 12v head & taillights)
48volt charger
I use my cart for golfing just about everyday and am still using the original 36v series motor.