2013 Bad Boy Ambush Actuator Problems

[Scott725]

Does anyone have a video of a properly working actuator on a Bad Boy Ambush? Mine will not go into reverse in gas mode and I would like to see a video of one working properly before I start adjusting on it. The whole thing moves when you change from forward to reverse and not just the rod that is pushed or pulled by the actuator.

[DaveTM]

Good luck with having anyone, including the factory give you any information about anything on a BBB. I'm not being a S\A here, but every BBB post turns into a "I can't get a response from BBB". Happens all the time.

[HiTechRedNeck]

Sorry that this will not be much help-- but here goes.

Ambush uses EZ go gas rear end.
Look at an ezgo gas cart- look at the way i shifts with cable.
The actuator should mimic this action.

if whole actuator moves- sounds like mounting(bolts?) problem.

[tklefler]

Anyone ever find a resolution to this? Mine will also not go into reverse. took the actuator apart and i don't see any adjustments. I am wondering if it is a programming issue with the controller. Or the actuator motor is getting weak and not pushing the rod all the way out to engage reverse. It sometimes even will not go into Neutral. I know the transmission is fine as i can disconnect the actuator and move shift linkage by hand and it will shift and run fine.

[eightfoot8]

have you tried calibrating it on the dash board? theres a simple procedure to do it without the handheld diagnostic tool
Start with the key off, move the region mode switch to high, turn the key to neutral, move the vehicle switch mode to electric, hold down the start switch while rocking the region mode switch from low to off 5 times. The indicator lights will illuminate blue while the actuator is calibrating and will go back to green when its complete

[miajackson05@gmail.com]

The Ambush we have doesn't have the Regen Switch, how would you calibrate it?

[wa5eml]

The Duff-Norton model: LT50-2-s004 Linear Actuator on my 2014 model did not move when I tried to "Calibrate" it. I had taken it off the buggy to inspect it and make sure there was no issue inside the plastic box it was mounted in.
I got a response today from Duff-Norton on how to wire the LT to check it - (pretty straight forward). I really don't think that's it but will check and give feedback if there is something found. The TCM and the ECU are what drives the LT.
When trying to calibrate the TCM {what was suggested here}(training the control modules to look for the optimum neutral setting) the LT as mentioned did not move in my case and the LED's stayed in Blue. The ECU error code was a 5-1 which is an OEM fault that BBB programmed into it and not a Curtis 1234 normal error.
According to the BBB Service manual the error indicates that the this OEM code 5-1 is "Disconnecting between ignition coil #1 and ECU". The ECU makes more since, not the ignition coil. Since Brother in Law just had to have a new ECU put on it in April he gave me the thing to figure out. He is tired of throwing money at this cart. I think he said the local distributor charged him ~$2500.
The LT moves the transmission to Rev - Neutral - Forward. I unbolted the LT from the shift linkage and moved the transmission by hand to the center position, Neutral and was able to start the buggy. You can do this (at your own risk) by jumpering the Neutral connector instead. ***Be aware that pressing on the accelerator will make the buggy surge if it is in Forward or Reverse since by doing this you only simulated the neutral position. I had the buggy up on static jacks when this was tested so it would go nowhere.
In my case the LT is retracted which puts the buggy in forward, I believe it was. I did this test before removing the LT just to prove that the issue was inhibiting the gas engine from running. If all else fails since Brother in law does not want to shell out any more money on this and I don't plan on either since he gave it to me, I might end up bypassing the two modules and manually drive the LT with a spring loaded center off Double Pole Double Throw switch added to the dash which would do the same as the R N F switch only manually and not talking serially over the RS232 data bus going to the ECU. The R N F switch would be left in N position when on Gas. I found a way to make the electric motor work through the ECU since the FET's appear to be good. I might have to put a 3PDT switch to inhibit the electric motor from working when the gas engine is in use. With out this the electric motor might be able to be put in R (or F) and when the gas engine is powering the rear wheels in the opposite condition. This will be worked out if I can't find the TCU or what ever part proves to be faulty, at a reasonable price (which is the part I suspect at this time). I hope it is not the ECU again. I am not going to pay that kind of money which as mentioned brother in law paid back in April.
BTW, I did see on YouTube a cheap serial display that can read the RS232 serial bus communications between the OFF R N F switch and the ECU. I might put one of these readers together at a later time if all else fails. The Curtis HHT is too expensive to buy and the local distributor has not been any help (sounds like a broken record from other posts). Brother in Law went in for a face to face - did no good and he is more patient and civil than I might be at this point.

[csmgj7]

Not sure if this relates directly, but when we got our BBB, the gasoline part would not shift into reverse. I took it to a shop and they told me to remove the actuator and shift it by hand. When I got home and tried that I noticed the two bolts that hold the shifter to the actuator were loose. I tightened them and now it works great. Now I need to figure out why the electric part quit working.

[nickdalzell1]

I try with all honesty to tell people to avoid Bad Boy Buggies. They're junk, have like an F rating on hunting forums, ride like war wagons, and parts are either unobtainable or service manuals protected by the company like FBI secrets.

We have never had luck fixing them, unless the problem is with batteries, solenoids or the Sevcon controllers.

I call them Bad Buggies, which is a more fitting name. I am not sure if the same company also produces 'Bad Boy Mowers' but I avoid them too.

They change wiring and configuration twice a model year too. So keeping up is all but futile. However, the only ones that show up around Owensboro here are from 2009-2011. Never seen a newer one, and in fact, after my first 'service' call being one that failed after the guy killed and loaded up three deer, with them dripping blood all over me as I raced to replace both Sevcons, they give me panic attacks even seeing them. I would prefer if they never showed up again.

[Mississippi013]

Super old thread I know, but I thought I would give it a try. Does anyone know if the actuator shifts into 3 separate positions for the gas side? I do not have reverse and wonder if it only mimics 3 positions with an actual shift being only forward or reverse. Mine has 2 shift positions from what I can tell with the actuator, and I am curious if adjusting the shifter linkage with the nut at the springs will help me or not. Has anyone put a manual shifter in for the gas forward and reverse option and left the electric side as is? Thanks in advance.