EZ GO Dead

[rabbitreborn]

Actually Scotty I'm thinking the diode/resistor that goes across the 2 large posts of the solenoid.

[4Runner]

Oh and for hooking something up wrong Ive taken nothing apart except the Solenoid and I wrote all that down with pictures. LOL This thing has ben great for the past 5 years weve owned it no problems except batteries and I had them all changed out about two years ago. Last weekend it just died on me and I put it in REV and backed up and back in FWD and nothing. Shes been dead since.

Originally Posted by scottyb

Back to Square 1 What is the battery pack voltage? Why does the run/tow switch NOT work? Solenoid should never CLICK when in TOW? I'm thinking you got something hooked up wrong....










Rabbit,
I got $10 says the controller's smoked.

[LostHusker]

4runner, DCS carts are known for contoller issues, Ezgo only made them for a few years, rabbit could be right with it being the diode and resistor though.

[4Runner]

So how can I narrow it down or just take it back to where I bought it and if its a diode I get it fixed and if its a controller I trade it in.

Originally Posted by LostHusker

4runner, DCS carts are known for contoller issues, Ezgo only made them for a few years, rabbit could be right with it being the diode and resistor though.

[scottyb]

Well, wabbit. I hope you're right but I fear for the worst ... Is the reverse buzzer working? Did it ever?

[rabbitreborn]

http://www.nivelparts.com/pages/prod...=5556&c=014&n=

Do you see a part going from the large post of the solenoid to the other large post that looks like the one pictured in that link? I have no idea how to test it so don't ask me lmao..... I do know that if you switch from forward to reverse and hit the gas while the cart is still rolling forward, it will blow the diode assy. and the cart is dead in the water and does almost EXACTLY what you are describing.

I have my doubts about a blown controller because you said you were getting correct output from the controller to the motor (the test you did on the controller that involved the black lead on the M-).

[LostHusker]

Originally Posted by 4Runner

So how can I narrow it down or just take it back to where I bought it and if its a diode I get it fixed and if its a controller I trade it in.

Unless you are just wanting to get another one, you could upgrade the controller yourself and it would be much cheaper, plus the fun of doing it yourself.

[rabbitreborn]

either Scotty or I could supply you with that part..... They list at $45 but I think either of us could hook you up for a bit less. I have one on sitting on the shelf right now....

[scottyb]

I have 3 sitting on the shelf If it is a blown resistor board could he not remove it and have the cart run on jacks for a test?

[4Runner]

Yes thats exactly what going across the solenoid..

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

http://www.nivelparts.com/pages/prod...=5556&c=014&n=

Do you see a part going from the large post of the solenoid to the other large post that looks like the one pictured in that link? I have no idea how to test it so don't ask me lmao..... I do know that if you switch from forward to reverse and hit the gas while the cart is still rolling forward, it will blow the diode assy. and the cart is dead in the water and does almost EXACTLY what you are describing.

I have my doubts about a blown controller because you said you were getting correct output from the controller to the motor (the test you did on the controller that involved the black lead on the M-).