New to me 96 DCS with Alltrax DCX 300 open field error

[kgsc]

OK guys and gals, picked up yet another cart yesterday. Its not like I needed it but the price was too good to pass up. Previous owner told me his boy was driving it and it quit moving. Grinding sound coming from the rear end. OK, I'm thinking bad hub and I can fix that. Well I went to pick up the cart and they had taken all of the batteries out.. and not marked anything.. joy.. Oh well dragged it on the trailer, loaded the batteries and on my merry way. Got home and figured out all the needed wires and in the searching figured out the stock DCS controller had been replaced with an Alltrax Well anyhow, now the issue. Got everything hooked up and flip to Run. Key on I get a flash of 4 green(ITS) and then 5 red(Open Field). Checked the field wires and made sure all the connections are tight. Still same issue. What we did try is spinning the wheels while turning everything on and it works for like 2 seconds then returns to no turning but no open field error. As soon as we let the pedal up the error returns.. Get no movement when trying this in reverse and no beeper but I think the beeper is bad. Checked both micros for the FnR and they are good. Also what seemed strange is when you turned the key on with no pedal the solenoid kicked in and stayed in. I checked the switch in the floor and it is working correctly.

I'm thinking motor and I am going to "borrow" one to try..

Other ideas ?

Thanks in advance

[Sir Nuke]

considering what the symptoms are....I would be doing the same thing your are going to try first.

[kgsc]

I tried drinking another beer but that didn't help. At least with the cart. Going to try to pick up a used motor tonight and have a DCX500 I can try if it doesn't work..

[cheapjeep2]

I have had this error before and it can be caused by a number of things, in my case, the DCX was programmed for the wrong motor field mappings, and it eventually took out the controller, there was nothing wrong with the motor at all, but the controller had to be replaced. If you prove out the motor and you still get the error, then the controller is bad and will need replacing.

[JohnnieB]

Check the F1&F2 cables for damage.

Check Ohms between F1 & F2 cables at controller end while still attached to motor.
I get about 3.4 Ohms on my motor. Should by about the same.

If you have continuity, call Alltrax.

[kgsc]

I did look at the F cables and they appeared to be fine. I did disconnect both and clean the terminals at both ends. Also checked ohms with a meter and did get continuity but don't remember what it was I will check that again.. I did pick up a used motor last night and will swap it out in the next night or so. Will post results.

[yurtle]

Does the motor run off of jack stands? I have no experience with sepex motors, but if it runs a few seconds, I wouldn't think it was the motor. Maybe a bad sensing circuit in the controller. Dunno how to disable, but it may be a "feature" that can be disabled, assuming the motor actually works.

If it works, it just don't have enough features.

[cheapjeep2]

Originally Posted by kgsc

I did look at the F cables and they appeared to be fine. I did disconnect both and clean the terminals at both ends. Also checked ohms with a meter and did get continuity but don't remember what it was I will check that again.. I did pick up a used motor last night and will swap it out in the next night or so. Will post results.

As long as you have continuity between F1 & F2 and A1 & A2 you are ok, any other combination of continuity is bad (F1 or F2 to the Case, A1 or A2 to the case, or any F to A combination is bad) you can disconnect the motor from the controller (make sure the battery pack is disconnected first) add a jumper to the motor and hook up a 12 volt battery charger to the motor, as long as it spins, your motor is ok. See how to wire it below.

Also, I see that you spent money on a new motor, the first thing that should have been done is connect a computer to the controller, read what the field mapping is programmed to and make sure it matches the motor.

If it has the stock DCS motor, then the controller should read as Field Map #3. Anything different, could have blown up the controllers field map circuits.

Good luck.

[kgsc]

Well, swapped the motor out last night, not fun on a non lifted cart.. and then got I think a 2 blink red. Didn't have the Alltrax manual handy and thought it was a low voltage so checked the batteries and had 37.3. That seemed like it was OK but just for grins we put a car charger on a pair and tried it again. No flashing red this time and forward and reverse works. YAY !! Put it on the charger and left it to charge overnight..

Now. I have looked at the manual and 2 blinks means under temperature.. Well it was a brisk 60 degrees but don't think that would be cold enough. Now it could be 3 blinks which would be a Throttle not returned to zero.. Maybe it is just possessed..

I will try to look at it again tonight and see how it behaves. Still may have a hub issue but at least the motor turns now and really not sure what may have happened to the original one.
At some point I will hook my laptop up to it to see what we have..

Oh and cheapjeep2, I borrowed a known good motor from my EZ-Go guy so no $$ in it yet and I did not know the way to test it so thanks for the diagram. This cart was running for years before the original owner had the so called hub issue so I assume the mapping is correct but will check it.

[kgsc]

Ok spoke too soon. Was running the cart today and it just quit. Pulled the controller cover and the dreaded 2 blinks red. -25C I don't think so.. Guess I'll be calling Alltrax Monday.