e-z-go marathon help

hubba · 08-15-2014, 05:35 PM

Yes rib33024
that's it do I take it off and dry it out are just lit it dry on its on?

scottyb · 08-15-2014, 05:43 PM

Don't take anything off.... those things dont like water and they wont work if you get them wet enough but if the cover was on it would be hard to get it wet enough to totally quit. Unless you hosed

I suspect a wet micro switch initially, check the single one (not double one) at the F&R first with a meter or pull one wire off - hold it to the other terminal and see if the wheels spin... with the cart jacked up off the floor of course.

hubba · 08-15-2014, 07:47 PM

Will there isn't a cover didn't have one when got it and yes I hosed it party good. So now what do I do? Can I take it apart and clean it are is it just toast?

yurtle · 08-16-2014, 03:46 AM

You can just let it dry, or hit it with a leaf blower or blower hose on a shop vac. That "may" speed things up, assuming air can get to it enough to do some good. Tap water contains chlorine, which isn't particularly good, but at 2 parts per million, I wouldn't sweat it. Tap and well water can contain sulfur compounds, calcium, magnesium, and fluoride, among other things. Again, in the normal TDS and TSS concentrations, probably nothing to worry about for occasional exposure. Drying will guarantee the mineral deposits stay put. Displacing as much water as possible with a blower minimizes the deposits.

Also, in some coastal regions (at least in the southeast), I've see deep wells for indoor use and shallow wells for outdoor use. The shallow wells are generally slightly brackish.

Mine does the same every time I wash it. I generally just let it dry in the sun, and it sometimes shutters going back into the garage. I always wash it where I can push it if necessary. I have and ITS and if you have a pot, it may take a little longer, depending on where the water went. Still should dry and be just fine.

I would be careful in the future, especially if you're using soap, or baking soda for batteries. I try not to get soap in my ITS MS or baking soda on the FNR, and 4 connector Molex plug, but they always seem to get wet anyway. My FNR has an environmental cover, which protects it from running water, as long as you aren't spraying, then all bets are off. I've moved everything else, so they don't generally get wet.

hubba · 08-16-2014, 10:08 AM

Ok yurtle

It has been two days now. Im starting to wondering if two pieces have stuck together. Are can that even happen?

hubba · 08-20-2014, 03:03 PM

I have taken the potentiometer off and no water in it at all it does meter out at 0 to 6 not 0 to 5. Put it back on and now when putting battery cable's back on it sparks bad. So I pulled all wires off. Started wiring it back one by one have all wires on but solenoid wire and it's the one that is sparking. Yesterday I noticed that the. I'm going to call it a diode between the two post on the control module one of the wires was broke so I soldered it back on but same thing.

Please help!!!!!!!

radioman · 08-20-2014, 03:33 PM

Make sure the micro switch in the pedal box is working and properly adjusted. It should be open when the pedal is at rest and close when the pedal is pressed. I had a similar problem with my old series cart where the switch cam was bent and staying closed all the time. The solenoid would click when the cart was switched on and would haul a$$ without pressing the pedal because of corrosion and leakage in the ITS cable connector caused by water. If the solenoid clicks when you switch the cart on that may be part of the problem.

Opps.. I see the Marathon don't have a ITS. Sorry about the confusion. But the controller don't care if it is the pot or corrosion leakage across the white and black wires to the controller it will move and the pedal switch needs inspecting.

radioman · 08-20-2014, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radioman

delete

something weried going on with my computer and this site. It froze up when posting reply and had to start over. I restarted computer and ok now. I can't figure out how to delete a reply.

hubba · 08-20-2014, 04:22 PM

Thanks radioman

I will look in to that. For now i can't look in to anything if i can get the solenoid wire hooked up.

It's about time to get a lighter and some gas... LOL

08-15-2014, 05:35 PM	#11
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58	Re: e-z-go marathon help Yes rib33024 that's it do I take it off and dry it out are just lit it dry on its on?
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58

08-15-2014, 05:43 PM	#12
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,418	Re: e-z-go marathon help Don't take anything off.... those things dont like water and they wont work if you get them wet enough but if the cover was on it would be hard to get it wet enough to totally quit. Unless you hosed I suspect a wet micro switch initially, check the single one (not double one) at the F&R first with a meter or pull one wire off - hold it to the other terminal and see if the wheels spin... with the cart jacked up off the floor of course.

08-15-2014, 07:47 PM	#13
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58	Re: e-z-go marathon help Will there isn't a cover didn't have one when got it and yes I hosed it party good. So now what do I do? Can I take it apart and clean it are is it just toast?
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58

08-16-2014, 03:46 AM	#14
yurtle Gone Mad Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Buford, GA Posts: 8,988	Re: e-z-go marathon help You can just let it dry, or hit it with a leaf blower or blower hose on a shop vac. That "may" speed things up, assuming air can get to it enough to do some good. Tap water contains chlorine, which isn't particularly good, but at 2 parts per million, I wouldn't sweat it. Tap and well water can contain sulfur compounds, calcium, magnesium, and fluoride, among other things. Again, in the normal TDS and TSS concentrations, probably nothing to worry about for occasional exposure. Drying will guarantee the mineral deposits stay put. Displacing as much water as possible with a blower minimizes the deposits. Also, in some coastal regions (at least in the southeast), I've see deep wells for indoor use and shallow wells for outdoor use. The shallow wells are generally slightly brackish. Mine does the same every time I wash it. I generally just let it dry in the sun, and it sometimes shutters going back into the garage. I always wash it where I can push it if necessary. I have and ITS and if you have a pot, it may take a little longer, depending on where the water went. Still should dry and be just fine. I would be careful in the future, especially if you're using soap, or baking soda for batteries. I try not to get soap in my ITS MS or baking soda on the FNR, and 4 connector Molex plug, but they always seem to get wet anyway. My FNR has an environmental cover, which protects it from running water, as long as you aren't spraying, then all bets are off. I've moved everything else, so they don't generally get wet.

08-16-2014, 10:08 AM	#15
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58	Re: e-z-go marathon help Ok yurtle It has been two days now. Im starting to wondering if two pieces have stuck together. Are can that even happen?
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58

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08-20-2014, 03:03 PM	#16
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58	Re: e-z-go marathon help I have taken the potentiometer off and no water in it at all it does meter out at 0 to 6 not 0 to 5. Put it back on and now when putting battery cable's back on it sparks bad. So I pulled all wires off. Started wiring it back one by one have all wires on but solenoid wire and it's the one that is sparking. Yesterday I noticed that the. I'm going to call it a diode between the two post on the control module one of the wires was broke so I soldered it back on but same thing. Please help!!!!!!!
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58

08-20-2014, 03:33 PM	#17
radioman Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: South Georgia Posts: 1,120	Re: e-z-go marathon help Make sure the micro switch in the pedal box is working and properly adjusted. It should be open when the pedal is at rest and close when the pedal is pressed. I had a similar problem with my old series cart where the switch cam was bent and staying closed all the time. The solenoid would click when the cart was switched on and would haul a$$ without pressing the pedal because of corrosion and leakage in the ITS cable connector caused by water. If the solenoid clicks when you switch the cart on that may be part of the problem. Opps.. I see the Marathon don't have a ITS. Sorry about the confusion. But the controller don't care if it is the pot or corrosion leakage across the white and black wires to the controller it will move and the pedal switch needs inspecting.

08-20-2014, 04:22 PM	#19
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58	Re: e-z-go marathon help Thanks radioman I will look in to that. For now i can't look in to anything if i can get the solenoid wire hooked up. It's about time to get a lighter and some gas... LOL
hubba Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 58

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