1979 electric textron ezgo wont go

[jhayward1775]

Hello, i recieved a 1979 electric textron from my inlaw, and it isnt running, i checked the charger and batteries with a multi meter, all batteries individually show 6+ volts, i removed the electric motor, linkied the f1/a1 and f2/a2 terminals on the motor and it turns slowly, but wont turn when on the axle, the selenoid clicks when the pedal is depressed, but nothing at the motor? any help would be great.

[jhayward1775]

forgot to say that after removing the motor, the axel turns freely and both tires turn

check cables and connections at restorers

check cables at accelerator switch

[shidasko2]

Good evening,
First, I ought to say by far I am no expert but, I know little about the 1977-1981 ezgos..

However my two thoughts come to mind as im working on a 1977 ezgo textron myself. The wiring is fairly simplistic as it works a single solenoid and only two microswitches(suppose to be 3) to work.

My first thought would be the simpliest to load test the batteries to see if they are worn out. As a dying battery can still give a surface charge but not have any amp capacity left. I say this thought as you mention it moves very slowly.

My second though would be the motor itself is wearing out, precisely how I could not tell you.
However, from my experience working on my red machine, the solenoid isnt needed per say to run and if it was fried/bypass the same battery amps should be the same.
If you load test each battery and their all in great shape, then I would pull the motor out of the axle and see if you can free spin. This would allow you to see if their something seized inside causing the weak spin.

However, id be willing to bet money that it is the batterys cant handle the amp pull for the motor to spin.
As you said before when you had the axle attached, it didnt even make the axle spin.when the axle was detached, it would spin very slowly.

Like I said only two possibilities, weak batteries or dying motor (needs rebuild)

good points but ... he is getting no volts at motor

[shidasko2]

My mistake, missed the part about no volts at the motor when depressed. Here could be another problem ontop of his motor issue. Before you depress the pedal are there any volts to motor, and when you press it down (releasing the microtoggle on the speed control board), there are no volts going to the motor?

If thats the case, then it could be a couple of issues.
1) check f&r reverse switch to make the correct wires are wired to, also check to see if the 4 contacts on the cam are making contact when u put it in forward or reverse. Also do continuity testing on the two microswitchs below the f&r switch. If all three (1 by speed control & two under f&r) switchs are good, then I would check the multimeter to trace where the power loss is. Start at the positive side of the battery, to solenoid, f&r, speed control, resistor board.


As right off the bat, you should have 36 crossing solenoid. If lesser, then definite problem with f&r contacts/wires.

Thinking about it, it sounds like either miswire/missing wire or a microswitch has gone bad. For you to lose power at the motor when you depress on pedal which would be the speed control board.

The microswitchs & solenoid wouldnt effect your amperage. Now my setup was ran with three 12 volts (limited funds)

However if 1 6volt has,dead cells, all your batteries will only work as best as your weakest battery.
So sounds like like 2 problems your having. One thing I did, when all problems I had when I first start working on mine was to remove all the wires and start fresh to make sure each wire was going to where it was suppose to.
It may be a pain, but it will help, the above schematic has helped me greatly and of course color code all your wires. For all your 18-gauge wire connections.

But your suppise to have 5 wires from speed control board, 4 going to resistor coils and last one is a jumper wire from contact 2 to - side of solenoid where your swiper arm connects.

But let us know of your findings with continuity & amperage loads & voltage reads in each state. Those copper contacts do build up a lot of gunk on em and need to be repolished to ensure clean connection.

[jhayward1775]

ok so i took all of the wires off, cleaned the leads, took the motor out and cleaned the inside, everything is back together as the diagram says, and i get buzzing, but no motor function. I put the neg lead from the multi meter on the neg of the battery, and the positive on the F!/2,a1/2 terminals and it read between 11.8 and 13.4 on all of them. so i guess two questions, is this enough to turn the motor? or is the motor shot? when i took it off the cart, i connected f1/a1 and f2/a2 and hooked it to a 12v car battery, and it turned just very slow. thanks for all of your help!!!

[jhayward1775]

i dont think i mentioned that it is a 36v 6 battery set up.

[shidasko2]

The motor needs between 32-42 to properly. You should be reading 36 volts from negative lead on motor to any of the positive connections depending on if it is forward or reverse. Meaning, while its engaged in forward, one positive & one negative lead should equal 36volts, while one post will reveal zero and if you flip it into reverse the posts shpuld be flipped voltage why.

You can run your cart on 3x 12deep cycle or 6x6volts batteries. Nothing but your lights & accesories will work on 12.

Have you done a load test on all your six volt batteries, your nearest auto store can do it for free if you dont have a load tester.

However your motor wires s2,a1a2 should be connected to f&r. The negative lead on s1 running to negative lead on battery. The bottom connection of the f&r shpuld be your positive start line.

When you run a 36 volt series system, you will have a start positive which where the positive terminal connects the positive charge cable & bottom position of f&r. Then your series line will end with where your s1 negative & negative line of charging cable will connect at.

If you use normal auto 12volt batteries with cold cramping amps, you can use it to test your system but it wont last long under a load.

Like I said first, your entire cart everything runs on 36-42 volts for anything to work, I.e solenoid, motor, f&r switch...

If you are getting 36 volts through the battery bank and only getting 12-24 volts at your solenoid, that means either miswire or one of your copper contacts on f&r assembly are not making proper connection..

But if your getting the motor to turn on a straight connect to a 12volt battery, and not when it isnt hooked up in the sequence to f&r board. It most likely
One of three issues
1) copper contacts on f&r are not making solid connection on the cam bus,
2) your missing a wire or wired incorrectly
3)batteries are weak or not hooked up in a proper sequence.

I was wrong earlier, Now at your speed control board. Your suppose to have 6 wires connected to contacts 2-5, 2on1, 1on3, 1on4, 2on5.

But after you have determined all batteries in good condition, I would start taking components apart n check out each component. Start with f&r assembly board & the cam bus and and see if each one is making a clean connection to each stud.

Its surprisingly, you had the motor turn at all with 12volt, as they require 36 to actually truly work.

Get back n let me know whst cam bus looks like & quality of each 6volt battery. I dont mean volts per cell but an load test actually reads out at.

Originally Posted by shidasko2

Its surprisingly, you had the motor turn at all with 12volt, as they require 36 to actually truly work.

i know this will sound like i'm picking on you but ...
it is recommended that you use 12v~24v to test a motor





just want the proper info out there