04-01-2019, 05:30 PM | #11 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: Send out clutch refurbisher
The moveable sheave should be rotated 1/3-1/2 turn as the helix is pressed back on.
You motor is a counter clockwise rotation motor right? So the sheave should be turned counter clockwise and held until the helix is on and the snap ring in place. This does take some effort, so you need a way to hold the sheave while you install the helix. I use a large C Clamp and lightly clamp the sheaves together. When you remove the clamp, hold the sheave firmly by hand to prevent it from rapidly spinning back. It should now turn back and the buttons should rest against the helix and stay there. This turn is necessary to pre-load the clutch spring which makes it harder for the clutch to open. And it ensures that the buttons stay in contact with the helix at all times. These clutches should be assembled totally dry. NO lubrication at all. Any oil or grease or other lubricant will attract dirt and dust which will then stick in the moving parts of the clutch and cause accelerated wear and poor operation of the clutch. It can also get on your belt and cause slippage and belt chatter, and damage to the belt. How wavy are the sheaves on the driven clutch? I can kinda see the sheaves on the drive clutch in the pic above and they don't look that horrible. Do you use the cart every day or is it a once every few days to a week? Or just once in a blue moon? If you don't use it every day, you might be fine to just fix the helix issue on the secondary and clean up the primary a bit and throw a new belt on it. As long as it still operates smoothly, if you don;t use the cart every day it will probably last another few years. If you use it every day, a set of new clutches would be a bigger benefit to you than just rebuilding what you have. Parts to rebuild the primary are kind of expensive. I think it's around $130 just for the parts for the drive clutch. Weights, buttons, thrust washer if it needs it, and the center bearing if it's bad. If you end up needing a new spring it's usually better by then to just replace it and have everything brand new. The primary really isn't hard to take apart, you just need a small 3 hole puller like a steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller to pop the outer cover off. Then remove the snap ring and the moveable sheave slides off and you can remove the spring and the bearing. Inspecting the weights is straight forward. The weights should rotate freely on the shafts, but they should not rock or move parallel to the mounting shafts. If they're loose and rock around alot, they're worn out and need to be replaced. Usually the thrust washer can be re-used, just flip it over so the weights are pushing on the other side. If both sides are grooved it needs to be replaced. |
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04-19-2019, 02:23 PM | #12 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1
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Re: Send out clutch refurbisher
I’m having clutch problems as well. To much to type with everything I’ve done and the different springs they have sold me. Can you call me or send me a link of who to call about a 96 club car ds that won’t climb a hill from a stopped position. 352-229-5152
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04-19-2019, 06:33 PM | #13 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Slippery Rock
Posts: 243
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Re: Send out clutch refurbisher
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