98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth

[lrmike64]

Have not even tried it. New batteries and I know the charger needs the OBC to work but did not think the OBC had a lot of influence on the running. This is literally the first hookup and test.

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[Mooncarter]

It needs to run through it for the CHARGER to work properly.

[nickdalzell1]

Also some DSs need the OBC to function (or be bypassed) for the car to run. Some have a solenoid lockout.

[lrmike64]

So, been a long and mixed day, but did get a chance to look at the cart again for a bit. I started at the positive cable and worked my way back. I did find yet another bit of squirrel sabotage on the wire between the solenoid and the tow/run switch. That and a dodgy connection on my multimeter fixed and now I have a consistent 50V at the key switch, both sides, when on. NOW - I get a slight hum sort of noise from the motor when I drop the GO pedal. I checked the yellow/black wire per a post on here and have 3.8V when the micro switch clicks dropping to close to 0V at WOT. The blue/white wire on the passenger side solenoid (no resistor coil) shows like 3V until I press the pedal, then 0V. The solenoid never clicks. I tried jumping the 48V ground to same terminal: no click. SO, it looks like a bad solenoid? I removed and tested both by jumping the small terminals to 48V, no click. Both coils show infinite resistance (open circuit) across the small terminals. Do I have 2 bad solenoids? Or am I testing them wrong? Thanks again for all the replies. With your help I'll get my wife and dog riding in this thing soon!


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[Fairtax4me]

I kinda mis spoke earlier. This should be your wire diagram here if you do have a Regen 2 cart. http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/48vregen.jpg
The Red/white comes from the primary solenoid and provides power at the Tow Run, Tow Run then gives power to the green wire to key switch and the white wire to the OBC. The OBC then gives power out to the solenoids and other things via the splice in the harness.

It kinda sounds like you have two dead solenoids but that seems too coincidental.
I always try to test across the coils with an ohmeter set to auto range. I don’t know what the resistance on those should be off hand. I don’t believe the coils in those are polarized, so you should be able to connect 48v to either side, ground to the other and the solenoid should click on. They’re not quiet about it either.
The motor buzzing indicates it’s getting power somehow, but if the solenoid is working, you should be getting pack voltage at the B+ terminal on the controller when pressing the pedal down. If the motor is buzzing it’s getting power from somewhere, but it won’t get enough to move if the solenoid is bad.

Originally Posted by nickdalzell1

The regen ONE has two solenoids, one with a resistor across it, visible from battery tray. the regen II has only one solenoid, an Allbright mounted behind the inspection cover.

Regen 1 does Not have Tow/Run switch.
Regen 2 Does have Tow/Run switch.
Regen 2 does have Two solenoids. One with a coil on it.

[lrmike64]

Thanks for the reply, Fairtax4me. Yes, that diagram is my cart. At this point have both solenoids out, tested with 48v across the coil and neither click or even have a small spark. Resistance on both coils shows infinate. I'm carrying one to work today to retest and maybe disect. The only thing I can think is this cart sat uncovered with no body for at least a year, maybe water got inside them? Either way, looks like I'll be shopping coils today! Recommendations anyone?


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[lrmike64]

Yep, 2 bad solenoids. I disected one today and found the green gungies on the coil. The little green spots on the pic are copper oxide. No water in the housing, but maybe from condensation or something.

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[nickdalzell1]

I had a regen 1. IT had a tow/run and two solenoids, one with a resistor coil acros it. and one heck of a weird controller you can't get anymore today.

[lrmike64]

Cart is now running great, thanks to the help from here. 2 solenoids, a wiring repair, clean up the V-glide and back to new. Biggest issue was having to repair my GE controller - burned out trace on the board for the positive contactor. I hate to admit it, but I may have done this one to myself while chasing the rest! On to the next issues! Thanks again for the help

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