Thoughts ?

[Bayouownbeer]

Originally Posted by Bayouownbeer

Update used temp gun after running around few miles. Motor got up to 150 degrees which is to hot to touch but a waise from 190. Back Of controller was in the range. I Have a digital volt meter hooked to my key switch and if I buy it full throttle voltage drops to 31 but comes back up. I have LED headlight bulbs in the factory head light they will dim as well. Is that normal of I don’t mash it hard it only
Drops a few volts and will settle out around 35 while rolling. 37 almost 38 volts sitting still

Ran around a little more in grass ext today motor got to 160 didn’t push it any further.

[Bayouownbeer]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

In a nutshell, the slower a motor spins, the more amps it is capable of drawing and the 23" tires causes the motor to spin 28% slower than it normally does, plus it takes more torque to turn the taller than stock tires and more torque means more amps drawn and the lower the battery pack voltage drops to the more amps are needed to do the same work, so you have the perfect storm for overheating the motor and controller and everything else the amps flow through.

Thanks for info. So basically next time I burn up the motor lol. Need up upgrade motor and controller to handle the 23” tires? As long as I’m below 190 on the motor I should be ok? Motor takes while to cool down controller cools down quick. I ordered a 4” waterproof electronics fan to blow on each hopefully that helps.

[cgtech]

I have added a fan to Danaher controller RXVs with real good results! It just might work. But don't discredit JohnnieB because you haven't seen it.... He's dealt with more cart issues than several "shops" combined... He knows his ****
If you are overtaxing your motor, yes, temps will be up. Let's systematically get to the root of the problem. Never "sign off" any part as good until you know for sure. That is like diagnosing my lady's car today on description only. Rule nothing out, until tested.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bayouownbeer

Thanks for info. So basically next time I burn up the motor lol. Need up upgrade motor and controller to handle the 23” tires? As long as I’m below 190 on the motor I should be ok? Motor takes while to cool down controller cools down quick. I ordered a 4” waterproof electronics fan to blow on each hopefully that helps.

That is the general idea.

The cooler you can get the motor and controller to run, the longer they will last.

Thermal energy is cumulative and what isn't dissipated raises the temperature of whatever is containing it. In other words, if ways to dissipate more heat energy can be implemented, the controller and motor will run cooler.

Removing the cover over the motor will help air flow around motor also.

You R&R'd the controller, so you most likely reused the thermal pad between it and the heat sink. Those pads aren't really reusable, they lose a lot of their efficiency when reused.

They are a bear to remove, I took the heatsink out of the cart and used a bench grinder with a wire brush to get it off. Then I used thermal grease to couple the DCX controller I was installing to the heatsink.

[Imapled]

Originally Posted by cgtech

That is like diagnosing my lady's car today on description only.

Excellent advice. Made me think of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EBABezA3xI

[Bayouownbeer]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

That is the general idea.

The cooler you can get the motor and controller to run, the longer they will last.

Thermal energy is cumulative and what isn't dissipated raises the temperature of whatever is containing it. In other words, if ways to dissipate more heat energy can be implemented, the controller and motor will run cooler.

Removing the cover over the motor will help air flow around motor also.

You R&R'd the controller, so you most likely reused the thermal pad between it and the heat sink. Those pads aren't really reusable, they lose a lot of their efficiency when reused.

They are a bear to remove, I took the heatsink out of the cart and used a bench grinder with a wire brush to get it off. Then I used thermal grease to couple the DCX controller I was installing to the heatsink.

When I removed the controller I didn’t see anything but a little Aluim corrosion between the two no thermal pad. I will clean it off Ans put some thermal grease between the two abs add the fans.

[Smitt]

Just admiring the good advice and info i learned here.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bayouownbeer

When I removed the controller I didn’t see anything but a little Aluim corrosion between the two no thermal pad. I will clean it off Ans put some thermal grease between the two abs add the fans.

You were lucky.

It was adhesive backed and a son-of-a-gun to get off.

It hadn't even been applied square behind the controller.

The bolt holding the heatsink in place were corroded, but a couple squirts of Kano Kroil and some time solved that issue.