2012 TXT 48v Solenoid Not Clicking - controller pin 12?

[jsmith101]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

That is a Trombetta, a very good solenoid. It's a 2012, but it is 48V. Your controller needs to be set for a 48V solenoid in order to work with it.

Bob, thanks for the verifying that. How would I go about setting the controller to 48V?

If it were to already be set to 48v (assuming), could the open reverse buzzer be causing the issue or would you think its likely the controller? Does the reverse voltage need to be present at the controller before it sends the signal to the solenoid via pin 12? Also, great question by rockfordpi, why is pin 7 labeled "out"?

I appreciate all the help!

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

Bob, thanks for the verifying that. How would I go about setting the controller to 48V?

If it were to already be set to 48v (assuming), could the open reverse buzzer be causing the issue or would you think its likely the controller? Does the reverse voltage need to be present at the controller before it sends the signal to the solenoid via pin 12? Also, great question by rockfordpi, why is pin 7 labeled "out"?

I appreciate all the help!

If that controller is original to the cart, it should be set for a 36V solenoid. It requires a programmer to reconfigure your solenoid voltage. When you measured 28V on your solenoid output, that confirms that it was configured for a 36 volt solenoid. If it had measured as 36V after more than half a second of on-time, it would be configured for a 48 volt solenoid. Full solenoid voltage is applied for half a second to pull in the solenoid, then about 75% of that voltage is applied to hold it in. This has nothing to do with pack voltage, it is set by a PWM regulator built into the controller.

The 1206HB-5201 is unlike prior TXT controllers before it. It has been set up with I/O pins to support multiple modes (personalities) with configurable operating capabilities that can be selected on the fly. I have seen nothing to cause concern about cutting wires on the buzzer in the TXT48. I have seen multiple wiring diagrams that are stated as for the 2010+ TXT48, but I do not know for sure why they differ from the diagram that I downloaded from Textron and published on the forum.

[jsmith101]

Hi Bob,

So I jumped the reverse buzzer and confirmed pack V on pin 7. Then proceeded down the check list and got stuck at the Pin 1 check (ITS out) and did not get the 13-15 volts. I was bouncing in the mV. Followed the checks an confirmed continuity between connector and ITS. Guide suggests issue with controller

I then went back and checked voltage at pin 12 and was receiving just under pack voltage. Went across the small solenoids and did not see the 28 volts I thought I saw earlier. Was seeing .36v. Also, nothing changes when depressing the pedal.

Given both the output from Pin 1 and Pin 12 not being accurate is it safe to assume my controller is not working properly?

Thanks,

Jonathan

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

Hi Bob,

So I jumped the reverse buzzer and confirmed pack V on pin 7. Then proceeded down the check list and got stuck at the Pin 1 check (ITS out) and did not get the 13-15 volts. I was bouncing in the mV. Followed the checks an confirmed continuity between connector and ITS. Guide suggests issue with controller

I then went back and checked voltage at pin 12 and was receiving just under pack voltage. Went across the small solenoids and did not see the 28 volts I thought I saw earlier. Was seeing .36v. Also, nothing changes when depressing the pedal.

Given both the output from Pin 1 and Pin 12 not being accurate is it safe to assume my controller is not working properly?

Thanks,

Jonathan

More than likely, the trace from pin 7 was damaged by too much external load placed upon one or more pins that split off from there internally. It happens quite often, like a fuse blowing, but no fuse. That would shut down the controller. You can buy a replacement controller for under $200. If you want it tweaked out, mail it to me and I can do that. If it were me, I would remove the cover and follow the trace to see if I could find the damaged part and solder in a jumper... Much easier controller to work on as compared to the new epoxy they use to seal the RXV controllers. I need to return the 3 here so they can send them off to FSIP for repair.

Bob

[jsmith101]

Thanks Bob, was out of town so I didn't get a chance to look at it. Going to pop it open tonight and take a look at it.

Thanks,

Jonathan

[jsmith101]

Opened up the controller and it looks very clean. No signs of bulging or damaged components and all solder joints look good. Was hoping for a smoking gun but does not look like I am going to be so lucky. Would have jumped but since i couldn't see an obvious problem didn't want to mess with it.

Now that it looks like I am in the market for a new controller, what do you recommend. I don't want the cart to be a dog but also don't want to spend a ton of $$$. If I could get up around 20 mph I would be happy. I know if programmed in freedom mode the Curtis can get up around 19 (Which I would be okay with). I have also looked into the alltrax XCT48300 (https://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-xct-sepex--.html) which looks like I get the speed I am looking for but don't need to change out any other parts. On the high end of what I want to spend but if its worth the value then Id do it.

Would love to know your thoughts. Would also like to know more about how you tweak it out.

Thanks Bob for the help so far.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

Opened up the controller and it looks very clean. No signs of bulging or damaged components and all solder joints look good. Was hoping for a smoking gun but does not look like I am going to be so lucky. Would have jumped but since i couldn't see an obvious problem didn't want to mess with it.

Now that it looks like I am in the market for a new controller, what do you recommend. I don't want the cart to be a dog but also don't want to spend a ton of $$$. If I could get up around 20 mph I would be happy. I know if programmed in freedom mode the Curtis can get up around 19 (Which I would be okay with). I have also looked into the alltrax XCT48300 (https://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-xct-sepex--.html) which looks like I get the speed I am looking for but don't need to change out any other parts. On the high end of what I want to spend but if its worth the value then Id do it.

Would love to know your thoughts. Would also like to know more about how you tweak it out.

Thanks Bob for the help so far.

The 1206HB-5201 is capable of 20-21 MPH with stock tires, and much quicker accel, as well as decent regen braking.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303234949247

[jsmith101]

Just wanted to say thanks for the help Bob, turned out it was the controller so I replaced it and I am now up and running!


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[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

Just wanted to say thanks for the help Bob, turned out it was the controller so I replaced it and I am now up and running!

[rabbitreborn]

I apologize for dragging up an old dead thread, but my curiosity is driving me crazy....

I tried to Private message Bob regarding this but it says I couldn't do so......

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

A 2012 1206HB-5201 controller PWMs the voltage to a 36V solenoid. 36V is the pull-in voltage for about half a second, then it reduces to a 28V hold-in voltage. You should never take solenoid - to battery pack - because the solenoid coil would overheat from direct 48V and be damaged.

Bob

The above quote is from a 2019 post you made. I have looked through all of my Service Parts books from 2012 (solenoid part #614307) and 2013 (Solenoid Part #612711) for the TXT T48 and they all reference the solenoid as being a 48V unit. I even went into my shop and examined a 2012 that I have in for service for a customer and the solenoid in it is 48v.

so my question is, where did you get the information that the solenoid in the TXT was a 36v unit? I'm asking because I have a second 2012 T48 that is having a similar issue to the one described in the thread I pulled this quote from and while I am almost positive its a bad controller I noticed the post you made and when I looked at the solenoid, sure enough it was a 48v Trombetta.