36v EZGO just clicks when pedal is pushed

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by rotus623

I turned the rear shaft by hand and could hear a bit of a grinding noise. I believe the grinding is coming from either the motor or the rear axle assembly.

Time to take the pan off the rear end and see what you got.....check the condition of the oil and look to see if it looks "SPARKLY" (metal flakes in it) or of you have any CHUNKS in the pan.

[rotus623]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

Time to take the pan off the rear end and see what you got.....check the condition of the oil and look to see if it looks "SPARKLY" (metal flakes in it) or of you have any CHUNKS in the pan.

Very good. I will be at this tonight.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by rotus623

Ok guys, I am getting more and more familiar with the workings under the hood. I checked the micro switch and it is working perfectly. The plunger on the pedal is set to 17/64" clearance from the ITS just as spec calls for. With the key in, I checked the voltage from the white wire to B- on the ITS and it comes out to 14v. This is with the pedal FULLY DIS-engaged. When I engage the pedal until the solenoid clicks it goes down slightly, until full pedal engagement where I am reading 12v. Spec is 1v upon solenoid engagement and 3v on full pedal. I think I am getting high pedal disable because the voltage is too high. My guess is the windings in the ITS are shot and need to be replaced. Does this sound feasible guys??

I suspect your are looking at the Non-PDS troubleshooting guide and specs rather than the PDS troubleshooting guide and Specs.

The clearance for a PDS drive is 7/32 rather than 17/64 the Series drive uses.

Attached are the ITS stuff for a PDS, plus a schematic for the ITS sensor.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by rotus623

1. I also checked the J1 and J2 pins accordingly, and there is 0V at both pins.

2. The solenoid is reading open, so I believe that it is "welded" together internally.......

3. As far as the grinding noise, I removed the rear wheels and hubs to inspect them. There is some pitting on the splines on one of the hubs but it doesnt look stripped. I turned the rear shaft by hand and could hear a bit of a grinding noise. I believe the grinding is coming from either the motor or the rear axle assembly.

1. If you are referring to J4 Pins 1&2, there ought to be Full battery pack voltage (~38.2V when fully charged) on Pin-2 all the time and on Pin-1 only when pedal is pushed. (Pedal switch is between these two pins)

2. If it reads an open between the two large studs, that is normal unless the solenoid is energized.

3. There are five sets of splines. On on each end of both rear axles and between motor and differential input shaft. Also, rear axles have been know to break, but not a common occurrence in a stock cart.

And as Sir Nuke mentioned, gear issues.

[rotus623]

Thanks Johnnie, you are the man!

Sorry I said 17/64 but I mean 7/32. Reading and re-reading this stuff can make your head start to spin.

1.) I was in fact referring to J4 pins 1&2 and got 0 both on both (even with pedal pressed in) I will follow the flowchart for 0V.

2.)Good to know that it is supposed to read open. Solenoid looks great and is in fact clicking.

3.) Thanks for that. I at least ruled out 2 of the 5 splines. I will check the differential fluid out and see what we have. The axles do not seem to be broken. I would rather have the motor be shot than internal diff issues...........

Talking to the owner, I have found out that the cart just recently started this grinding, and it started to happen as the cart slowly got slower and slower, to where now it won't even try to move.

[mutant]

what is the pack`s voltage at rest and under load?

[rotus623]

Originally Posted by mutant

what is the pack`s voltage at rest and under load?

Sorry, where do I take this reading at?

[rotus623]

Good news on the rear end. Differential and axle spindles all look great. No heavy chunks or shavings in the diff oil. A little bit of glitter, but I suppose that is normal wear and tear.

Now to get on this flow chart of electrical...............

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by rotus623

Good news on the rear end. Differential and axle spindles all look great. No heavy chunks or shavings in the diff oil. A little bit of glitter, but I suppose that is normal wear and tear.

Now to get on this flow chart of electrical...............

well seeing as how your hubs are in good shape, and now the diff appears to be good.....you may be replacing or having your motor rebuilt....that's all that's left that could be GRINDING.

[rotus623]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

well seeing as how your hubs are in good shape, and now the diff appears to be good.....you may be replacing or having your motor rebuilt....that's all that's left that could be GRINDING.

Yes sir, and that is what I was hoping for. Swapping a motor in these things is way easier than pulling the rear end apart IMO!!!

Still gotta figure out that high pedal code.