|
Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
10-21-2017, 01:24 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 1
|
1994 EZ GO Marathon Intermittent won't go
I replaced the six 6 volt batteries last year and had a service maintenance done last year about this same time. About a week ago, my cart started acted strange. It started going slower and slower. The gauge that shows the charge of my batteries kept going lower and lower. I would put my trickle charger on and it would show the batteries charged up after only a few hours. Finally, the cart would run for about five minutes and I'd have to push it back home. Not my idea of fun.
So, I got my multi-meter out and ran some diagnostics. Batteries are good and so are the brand new cables put on last year. The f/r switch has been cleaned and seems okay. I didn't know about the reed switch but I'm going to do something about that tomorrow. I've done everything I can think of. I thought I would put this out there for you experts to point me in some kind of direction. The worst thing I want to do is spend money taking it to the pros when I can probably fix it myself if I had the knowledge needed. Thank you for your time and knowledge!!! |
Today | |
Sponsored Links
__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum |
|
10-21-2017, 11:43 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: San Diego Ca.
Posts: 289
|
Re: 1994 EZ GO Marathon Intermittent won't go
Only been here a week , but this is what most all the threads are showing
.wait for the Pros before taking any of this advice , this is just what I've saved so far . ..Attn: pro's ...........and please correct me on anything and everything . FROM THREADS POSTED HERE . I couldn't tell you how many times I hear "the batteries tested good", only to find the batteries are bad. Always the first part of testing is charging and checking . and you will definitely need a volt meter to tell anything about whats going on . Charge batteries to full with charger, then let batteries sit without a charger hooked up for 12 hrs on a 36 volt system and you should have over 38 volts (38.4 is average ) if you have a healthy pack . . First thing you need to do is check to make sure all your battery cable connections are good . Connections that are severely corroded or burnt are pretty much toast and need to be replaced. Once a connection is burnt its just a matter of time before it completely fails. Give them a good pull and twist or better yet take them off ONE AT A TIME, clean the connection and the battery terminal and put it right back on. Taking them off one at a time and cleaning them ensures 2 things....You will KNOW the connection is good and you KNOW you got it connected right.(unless someone else miss-wired it) There is an abundance of forum cart questions that can be tracked back to a bad connection or a cart that is miss-wired. . DO NOT TAKE THEM ALL OFF at the same time unless you are upgrading and/or feel comfortable enough to rewire the whole cart. Good idea to check the voltage of each battery ... since they are in series, you will not have to disconnect them ... they can easily be checked while cabled up in your cart individually . 6.37 volts is the average full -/// 6.03 is 50% State OF Charge(SOC) below 50% soc and you are doing permanent damage.. If possible Load test each battery , Batteries that drop to 3. anything under load are total garbage batteries. . Another check ( if you have one) is to check all cells with a needle type (not floating balls) hydrometer . In both voltage and specific gravity readings, consistency among cells and among batteries is important. . You can also load test while driving by hooking your meter to all the batteries at once, then driving it. If they are dropping below 31v at anytime, for even more than just a second while driving (typically at full pedal), batteries are total losers / (when the voltage was good at rest/stopped showing 38 volts (38.4 is average ) for 36v systems never let batteries discharge below 70% State of Charge for the first couple dozen charge cycles. and Never let the batteries discharge below 50% State of charge . Generally...... If it's starting out OK, it's probably not a controller or solenoid issue. Really sounds like batteries falling off or maybe connections getting hot You could have a loose wire, but it also sounds like you could have a bad pack or at least "one" battery that is failing under load, that's all it takes |
10-23-2017, 09:37 PM | #3 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Re: 1994 EZ GO Marathon Intermittent won't go
Quote:
trickle charger is great for keeping batteries topped off but will not fully charge a set of deep cell golf cart batteries all lead acid batteries LOVE to be full charged the 3 P's of golf cart batteries P play with it P park it P plug it in |
|
10-24-2017, 02:37 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 69
|
Re: 1994 EZ GO Marathon Intermittent won't go
Check the solenoid to see if the post are burnt/black and if it ever dies try driving it backwards bc it takes less voltage so it might get you him or closer to home....
|
10-24-2017, 02:46 PM | #5 |
EZ come EZ go
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Parkland FL
Posts: 1,412
|
Re: 1994 EZ GO Marathon Intermittent won't go
batteries watered? A battery with no or low water will do that - looks charged on charger, no power while driving
|
Tags |
batteries tested, f/r switch, key switch |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
PLEASE HELP 1994 club car intermittent problem | Electric Club Car | |||
91 marathon intermittent spark | Gas EZGO | |||
83 Marathon. Intermittent spark. | Gas EZGO | |||
Intermittent Spark 89 Marathon | Gas EZGO | |||
1994 Marathon vs 1994 TXT and newer | Electric EZGO |