Controller Code 39 - Please Help

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Ok, so seeing the pics, I see your controller doesn't have a fuse on top like many do (attached at that empty pocket on yours). What type and brand solenoid is on that model, please give all details possible, like solenoid model number. Sorry, I don't have access to Ezgo factory website at home, and don't carry the Cushman stuff.

I've done some troubleshooting and fixing on 36v and 48vAC, but this 72vAC is a new animal for me. Try as I might, I can't seem to find anything on this baby that looks like the solenoids I'm used to seeing on "regular" carts. And nothing that looks as if it could be one. Does it have to have one?

The only clicking I hear when turning on the key comes from inside the controller. Just a faint double click (almost like contacts closing and then immediately opening) - but no firm click/clunk from anywhere like I am used to hearing from "regular" carts. And I can't really say what clicks I heard when it was working. Note To Self: pay better attention to the sounds when a cart is working as it should, and remember them.

BTW - did you mean to say that there is a fuse inside of that empty pocket on the controller. It is labeled as B+ so I guess so - correct? I can't get a look unless I remove the entire electric dump bed. Should I do that?

[cgtech]

Here's the best bad pic, with bad drawing. You don't need to worry about this, but I wanted to clarify the "fuse thing". It would mount on the outside, not the inside (I looked, lol).

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Here's the best bad pic, with bad drawing. You don't need to worry about this, but I wanted to clarify the "fuse thing". It would mount on the outside, not the inside (I looked, lol).

Oh - OK - any idea if there is a solenoid anywhere? I'm at a total loss as to what/where to begin. This is such an expensive (but super useful) vehicle in perfect shape.

But I don't know if i can ever get it going again. I read (or tried to read) the controller troubleshooting manual and I took me back to my organic chemistry class - as in not understanding more than half of it.

I'm thinking it is probably something simple. But even if I replaced electrical components one by one - it sounds as if I couldn't even use an "off the shelf" controller, and would have to learn how to program it - and buy the equipment to do so as well.

Maybe the EZGO tech will be able to shed some light.

[kgsc]

Not really an answer for your issue but could be helpful in the future. In your spare time go read these 117 pages.. With a programmed cable and the PC software you can have an OEM level scanner for that Cushman and the newer models of Curtis controllers..

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ontroller.html

[konakid]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Not really an answer for your issue but could be helpful in the future. In your spare time go read these 117 pages.. With a programmed cable and the PC software you can have an OEM level scanner for that Cushman and the newer models of Curtis controllers..

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ontroller.html

Thanks KG - that's something I may need to tackle eventually, and interesting reading. However, that would require a new PC (I'm an all Mac family) and the instrumentation - not a small expense.

At 2 1/2 years old (garaged, well maintained, and appears brand new) - and what is supposed to be a "commercial" vehicle - I hate to think the controller has already failed. But I can't seem to find the info to troubleshoot if this may even be a controller problem.

I guess I may be relegated to just start replacing the parts that could cause a completely"dead" pedal with all other electrical apparently functioning (horn, lights, backup buzzer, battery monitor, on board charger). Please correct me if wrong or needs additional, but that would include the reed switch, pedal micro switch, key switch, ITS, solenoid (if there is one).

I've checked all wiring, and connections/plugs. Everything looks new, zero corrosion anywhere.

[cgtech]

I would start with the main contactor (main solenoid).

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

I would start with the main contactor (main solenoid).

Thanks CG, I really appreciate your continued feedback. I'm afraid I'm almost at a dead end.

I can't locate anything that looks like a solenoid. I trying to find a wiring diagram for this model Cushman - still looking.

Does it have to have a solenoid? Or could it be enclosed inside of this "fancy" controller. The 39 error code I am getting indicates a "main contactor" failure - so I thought solenoid as well - but I can't find one.

A dealer (salesman) told me the 52 code (I am also getting) could be throttle related, so I thought the "main contactor" message could just be showing because the main contactor is not allowed to close due to the throttle issue (if that is what it is).

[cgtech]

If you follow the big wire from the pack B+, you will find the solenoid. It's not inside the controller. And yes, it has to have one.

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

If you follow the big wire from the pack B+, you will find the solenoid. It's not inside the controller. And yes, it has to have one.

Thanks CG - found it - hidden under the controller and some wire bundles. Not easy to replace. It looks like it has a relay next to it.

Question - I only hear a small double click when turning key on. I'm familiar with a solenoid "clunk" on a "regular" cart. I don't think the click I hear is the solenoid. I'm guessing/hoping it is the relay I hear, and the solenoid is not reacting at all. I've never heard of a "silent" solenoid - right?

Does this make sense as a possible theory? I will have to take off the back dump bed and "cowling" to get to this, so would like some support as to my thinking.

[cgtech]

Well, my test would be an ohm meter on the small terminals (with wires disconnected). Speculation is just that.