New wheels-studs too short

[Hunter450]

I have a set of aftermarket aluminum golf cart wheels and a set of aftermarket solid steel wheels similar to the stock design. The thickness of the mounting flange on the aluminum wheel is much thicker than on the steel wheel resulting in less lug nut thread bite. Carts are designed for steel wheels and when we buy these aftermarket aluminum wheels that are probably produced off-shore, we run the risk of different tolerances.

[RThelle]

I understand this but it doesn’t make sense to me that the fronts fit fine and the rears don’t. I can move the wheels around and no matter what happens the front will always work. I have tried numerous sets of aftermarket wheels and they won’t work on rear either. It’s like my rear lugs are different and too short.

If I put the stock steel wheels back on, I have far more thread sticking through the lugnut on the front wheels and 1/2” less threads showing on the rear. This is using stock steel wheels.

If I measure the front lug to see available thread it is longer than the rear lugs.





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[TahoeDawgZ71]

The front studs are always longer than the rear. Don't know why. But that's normal.

[RThelle]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

The front studs are always longer than the rear. Don't know why. But that's normal.

Interesting-it’s just weird to me that I can put these wheels on another Precedent and they bolt right up but this cart appears to have shorter studs.

Either way-I found some 2” replacements and just pressed them into the axles. Tires are bolted up on passenger side and about to move onto the drivers side.

Now I can get back to important stuff like light bars, custom bumper etc.

I’ve heard of driving a car until the wheels fall off but you don’t expect that to happen in the first week[emoji23]


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[Geezerbunny]

Originally Posted by Htownblue

You can remove your studs from the hub and purchase longer ones. Bit of a pain to do though.

How did you secure them inside the hub? (I assume the originals were welded.) Did anything go crazy or spring loose inside the hub assembly when you removed the four nuts to remove the hub? I had to drill / saw off the nut on one lug to get the wheel off, and now all four lugs are buggered up so I would like to replace as little of the hub assembly as possible to get it rolling again.

[Rooster59]

Wheel studs usually tap out thru the back and insert the same way. Some have square heads that fit into a square recess to keep them from spinning. Other styles have a serrated shoulder under the head to keep them from spinning. They have to be tapped into place with a hammer.

Most all styles dictate removing the hub from the axle to keep from damaging parts while tapping the studs in and out.

Get yourself a schematic of the hub. They are very simple to remove. No real surprises.

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by Geezerbunny

How did you secure them inside the hub? (I assume the originals were welded.) Did anything go crazy or spring loose inside the hub assembly when you removed the four nuts to remove the hub? I had to drill / saw off the nut on one lug to get the wheel off, and now all four lugs are buggered up so I would like to replace as little of the hub assembly as possible to get it rolling again.

You just knock them out with a hammer. Couple solid taps and they pop out. Turn the hub some and you'll find the sweet spot where you can remove them and install the new ones. You do not need to pull or remove anything else but the drum.

To re-install insert the new stud through the hole, place a 1/2" flat washer around the stud, spray a couple drops of wd40 or other lubricant on the threads, thread the lug nut on with the flat side toward the washer, then tighten the nut until the stud seats firmly.

[BNB1023]

I just asked the same questions before finding this post. My '09 Precedent is the same. Lugs on back have shorter amount to use. My aftermarket wheels also do not quite fit, studs do not make it all the way through the acorn nut. They are staying tight, but I am going to need to find longer ones.

Can I pull the rear hubs without loosening the brake cable? Doubt it but hope so.

[Briboy]

The rear Studs are the same length as the front, the difference would be the Drum on the rear make the available thread depth less.
I would think for ease and cost of manufacturing the carts they don't bother to use longer studs for the sake of what is going to be done with the cart after it leaves the dealers floor.
Just my $.02

[cart12]

For anyone reading this thread, I highly recommend that you disregard any previous recommendations for using Carry-On CarryOn 522 or 522T.

I can assure you these wheel studs are not the correct size.

1. The knurl diameter is wrong (too large) and you will destroy the axle hole integrity when forcing them in. Additionally, the knurls will be wiped off the stud when forcing them in. If you choose to ignore my advice, good luck getting them out.

2. The knurl length is to long and the knurls will interfere with the brake drum holes id. You would need to pound the drums on...and good luck getting them off.

If you wish to install CORRECT longer rear wheel studs, I recommend that you use NAPA 641-1102 6411102. They are ~1/4" longer that factory stock rear lugs.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE6411102

My lug nut engagement was doubled from ~4 turns to 8 turns. This applied to my 2011 Precedent and Club Car Athena 12" wheels with the factory recommended chrome lug nuts 47562951001 .