Ezgo Txt 48v won’t go

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mgray70

I think he said this was an SR control. It wouldn't supply the negative like the XCT. Or does it?

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The SR supplies B- when pedal is pushed.

In a stock series drive TXT, the black wire from the solenoid coil was connected to the B- terminal on the controller. With SR controller, the controller does it so it knows when the solenoid is supposed to be closed.

I posted a schematic for a SR in a series drive TXT earlier in this thread.

[mgray70]

[emoji106]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The SR supplies B- when pedal is pushed.

In a stock series drive TXT, the black wire from the solenoid coil was connected to the B- terminal on the controller. With SR controller, the controller does it so it knows when the solenoid is supposed to be closed.

I posted a schematic for a SR in a series drive TXT earlier in this thread.

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[Bkfiremedic]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The is a red wire from the solenoid's small terminal with the banded end of the diode on it that connects to the controller. Check for pack voltage on the controller's terminal this wire is connected to when solenoid clicks.



If no pack voltage, fix the red wire.

If there is pack voltage, the controller might be bad. (It is being told to power up and isn't doing so.)

Ok, I have pack voltage going to the controller. Does the controller tell the solenoid to close the circuit? Because the solenoid doesn’t click.


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[scottyb]

Just for grins run the J1 black (solenoid negative) wire over to the controller B- and see if the solenoid works. If yes leave it there. Sometimes the J1 black can be quirky .
If no, a no click situation exits. determine if + or - is missing from the small posts when it should be clicking and we can go from there.

[Bkfiremedic]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Just for grins run the J1 black (solenoid negative) wire over to the controller B- and see if the solenoid works. If yes leave it there. Sometimes the J1 black can be quirky .

If no, a no click situation exits. determine if + or - is missing from the small posts when it should be clicking and we can go from there.

Ok so I disconnected the J1 end, changed the end to a ring terminal, and mounted it to B-. The solenoid now clicks but the cart still doesn’t go anywhere.


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[Bkfiremedic]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Just for grins run the J1 black (solenoid negative) wire over to the controller B- and see if the solenoid works. If yes leave it there. Sometimes the J1 black can be quirky .

If no, a no click situation exits. determine if + or - is missing from the small posts when it should be clicking and we can go from there.

So what’s next? If your gonna tell me my controllers bad I’m gonna pull my hair out lol.


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[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bkfiremedic

So what’s next? If your gonna tell me my controllers bad I’m gonna pull my hair out lol.


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Cut and paste of my post#20 (edited to change The to There)

There is a red wire from the solenoid's small terminal with the banded end of the diode on it that connects to the controller. Check for pack voltage on the controller's terminal this wire is connected to when solenoid clicks.

If no pack voltage, fix the red wire.
If there is pack voltage, the controller might be bad. (It is being told to power up and isn't doing so.)

[Bkfiremedic]

Originally Posted by Bkfiremedic

Ok, I have pack voltage going to the controller. Does the controller tell the solenoid to close the circuit? Because the solenoid doesn’t click.


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[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bkfiremedic

Ok, I have pack voltage going to the controller. Does the controller tell the solenoid to close the circuit? Because the solenoid doesn’t click.


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If you have pack voltage going to the controller via the red wire attached to one of the solenoid's small terminals, and the solenoid clicks when you connect the black wire on the other small terminal to B-, but your cart doesn't go, your controller is bad.

Technically, the problem might be the throttle, but in your first post you stated the LED wasn't lighting up and I suggested you connect a laptop to it, which powers up the controller via the USB port instead of voltage on the red wire that normally powers it up. That pretty much eliminates the throttle as the problem.

Contact the vendor you got the controller from, or Alltrax, and get an RMA#.

[Bkfiremedic]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If you have pack voltage going to the controller via the red wire attached to one of the solenoid's small terminals, and the solenoid clicks when you connect the black wire on the other small terminal to B-, but your cart doesn't go, your controller is bad.



Technically, the problem might be the throttle, but in your first post you stated the LED wasn't lighting up and I suggested you connect a laptop to it, which powers up the controller via the USB port instead of voltage on the red wire that normally powers it up. That pretty much eliminates the throttle as the problem.



Contact the vendor you got the controller from, or Alltrax, and get an RMA#.

As I stated in post #13 in this thread I connected my laptop to the controller and powered it up, I got a sequence of 4 flashing green lights and that’s it. Without being connected to my laptop the green status light doesn’t come on. I bought all of my stuff thru ScottyB in Sept of last year.


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