DIY $36 6 inch lift. Does anyone make a Z style drag link?

[Stewbuntu]

I have a 1990 marathon

Here is what a Z style or drop drag link looks like. It's used after lifting trucks, Jeep's, etc. This is on a CJ Jeep.



Does anyone make something that would lower the steering on a frame lifted cart? I was able to get solid aluminum blocks for $2/lb and you can't beat $36 for 6 bolts and two blocks (6" tall x 3.5 wide x 4 deep which is as good as custom 4x4 trucks use vs those hard rubber blocks. I machined them down with the needed grooves on top and bottom for the leaf spring slots, drilled the holes, machined out the spot where the throttle linkage goes very close to the rear most driver side bolt, and they mounted like a glove.

Ideas:

In post #9 This guy makes his own tie rod and welds an upright for the drag link to bolt to. Post #9 is a qoute of his process. Could probably just weld an upright straight to the oem tie rod and add some gussets.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post822424



If I rotate one of the ball joints on the drag link down it would work but the angle of the tapered hole in the idler arm and the steering arm off the wheel both taper up for the angle of the ball joints to enter from the bottom.

I could drill one out and rotate it

I'm thinking about welding on some more 3/4 x 3/4 flat bar to the arm off the wheel and make a triangle of the arm that would stick up.

If they make a handy z style link that would be the best. I guess I could just make one also from a used drag link by bending and welding supports/gussets

I did see one guy that bent the idler arm down. That seems like a ton of work to dismantle everything vs weld onto the arm by the wheel. Ideally dropping the idler arm down under would be the best to keep my original turning radius.

what solutions are our there?


Here is my lift w springs mounted to the bottom using original hardware, just like mounting to the frame: holes drilled through the block help keep the leaf springs from rotating. You can see the groove at the bottom to mimic the frames oem arms that keep the springs from rotating. Thenidlee armnis in the center now too high and the steering arm (name?) off the passenger side wheel.






This guy bent the idler arm down and rotated the ball joint a little



This angled arm popped up uner a Google search for steering drag link

[Rooster59]

The part in the middle of the kit is what you need.

http://www.golfcarttiresupply.com/ja...89-1994-5-gas/

[Stewbuntu]

Originally Posted by Rooster59

The part in the middle of the kit is what you need.

http://www.golfcarttiresupply.com/ja...89-1994-5-gas/

I just saw that now in the 3rd picture with the bent idler arm. That steering arm off the wheel has the extension. It looks easy enough to build and I can make mine beefier.

I was worried if I bent the idler arm down to match the original level I would loose some length of the arm and the diameter of the swing or distance of the arm turning would decrease and shorten the steering radius. I'm liking this extension idea more and more.

[Rooster59]

Bending or extending the idler arm down is a bad idea. That lowers it in closer proximity to the ground if the front suspension is compressed or you pass over an obstacle between the tires. A buddy has a Marathon with a extension downward and it is too low for my comfort level. You want to keep the tie rod and idler arm up where it belongs.

I think if you had an offset drag link like used for lifted 4wd vehicles the end near the spindle would make contact with the leaf spring. The extension supplied in the lift kit I linked is about the only way to accomplish what you need.

[Stewbuntu]

Thanks a ton! I'm headed to Alro to get the metal now.

Originally Posted by Rooster59

Bending or extending the idler arm down is a bad idea. That lowers it in closer proximity to the ground if the front suspension is compressed or you pass over an obstacle between the tires. A buddy has a Marathon with a extension downward and it is too low for my comfort level. You want to keep the tie rod and idler arm up where it belongs.

I think if you had an offset drag link like used for lifted 4wd vehicles the end near the spindle would make contact with the leaf spring. The extension supplied in the lift kit I linked is about the only way to accomplish what you need.

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[Stewbuntu]

I though I might as well make it a Tube instead of a U channel that bolts to the arm. And I kept the thickness of the arm the same and upgraded the gusset piece. Cost was $14


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[Stewbuntu]

Here is the finished product. I lost maybe the last couple degrees of turning to the right, maybe 3/8 of an inch. I added more bracing, grade 8 bolts, and coated it in bed liner I had lying on the shelf. It works great, just took if for a spin and the original location for the drag link connectors works with no drifting to one side. Now maybe I can get the cart in and out of my truck without scraping the step on the back seat.


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[rib33024]

Looks good. It's great to have a welder

[Rooster59]

Well done.