Thanks for the help and more questions

[ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by yurtle

I drilled my rivets out, and use four 1" long brass bolts, nuts, and washers.

Yeah I have a feeling that may be coming next. Did not want to do that until I figure out exactly what I have here.

Thanks
Bill

[ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Ringing out conductors is the easiest way of getting to the bottom of a problem. I added a number labels to all of my wires and cables.

I hear you and will have to do that after I get passed the rivets.
Just gathering information now.

Thanks

[ArmyVeteran]

Was anyone able to view the pictures and come to any conclusions?

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...3f2rqTW1ukaHFP

Thanks

[orangeman6]

Could you take a picture that shows the entire under the seat area? Guys can zoom in where needed, but it’s helpful to be able to see everything in one shot.

I agree with chasing the wires from the taillight back. Look under the seat on the driver’s side at the top of the wheel well where the frame rail goes to the back. That’s the part of the harness that feeds the taillights. Follow it forward from there and you’ll run into whatever is powering the 12v circuit.

[Mooncarter]

I agree with orangeman about the photos.

Just my 2 cents: I would do whatever it takes to find out what is powering the switch. Trace it back to the reducer. You might just find a loose connection in the process.

[ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

Could you take a picture that shows the entire under the seat area? Guys can zoom in where needed, but it’s helpful to be able to see everything in one shot.

I agree with chasing the wires from the taillight back. Look under the seat on the driver’s side at the top of the wheel well where the frame rail goes to the back. That’s the part of the harness that feeds the taillights. Follow it forward from there and you’ll run into whatever is powering the 12v circuit.

Okay, Thanks. I will redo the pic. No problem.
Chasing the tail lites jut a bit more difficult. I had knee surgery yesterday....ughh.

But I have nothing better to do now....haha

The suggestion does make a lot of sense.

Will update soon.

HAve fun
Bill

[ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

I agree with orangeman about the photos.

Just my 2 cents: I would do whatever it takes to find out what is powering the switch. Trace it back to the reducer. You might just find a loose connection in the process.

Thanks, will do ASAP.

Bill

[ArmyVeteran]

Picture of entire area under seat. Again, disregard the yellow wire with fuse holder and the other black and red from that battery. That was a tap I used to test front lites.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WgG...ew?usp=sharing


Thanks
Bill

[Cobra,1]

Bill you may not need to drill rivets to expose key switch. Can you use meter and wire diagram to find correct color wire that shows what wire should be supplying 12 volts to switch? Have voltage there (in harness) then trace from that point back assuming you have 12 volts at that point in harness.
Pretty much all the electrical issues I had after buying my used cart were due to bad/ corroded connections, a 12 volt test light works great for basic trouble shooting as the pointed end of light can pierce wire for a quick check to see if voltage is present. Also a good tool to trace a bad ground circuit if clipping the lead onto a + terminal rather then- negative terminal. Had the left knee thing done two years ago. Getting to have right knee done. Sucks getting old lol

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by ArmyVeteran

Thanks, will do ASAP.

Bill