Testing 36v motor

[Tommyr1k]

Hello all. I recently purchased a 96 electric ez go with a 36v system. I believe the battery’s are shot but before I purchase new battery’s I’d like to be sure the motor is good. So far I’ve connected s1 to a2 using a jumper wire then using a 12v battery and jumper cables I applied battery power to s2 and negative to a1with no luck. I proceeded to remove the motor and disassemble only to find a little rust build up. I cleaned it as best as I could then attempted to bench test but only heard a clunky noise. With no power to the motor it spins free but when battery power is applied it will not spin. I installed the motor back on the cart and tried that as well but still no luck. The brushes looked good in the motor and I tested for continuity between s1 and s2 and got 2.5 ohms. I also tested continuity between a1 and a2 and found .8 ohms. Lastly I tested continuity between a1/a2 and motor body with no continuity and s1/s2 to motor body with no continuity also a1 to s1 with no continuity. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Tommyr1k

Hello all. I recently purchased a 96 electric ez go with a 36v system. I believe the battery’s are shot but before I purchase new battery’s I’d like to be sure the motor is good. So far I’ve connected s1 to a2 using a jumper wire then using a 12v battery and jumper cables I applied battery power to s2 and negative to a1with no luck. I proceeded to remove the motor and disassemble only to find a little rust build up. I cleaned it as best as I could then attempted to bench test but only heard a clunky noise. With no power to the motor it spins free but when battery power is applied it will not spin. I installed the motor back on the cart and tried that as well but still no luck. The brushes looked good in the motor and I tested for continuity between s1 and s2 and got 2.5 ohms. I also tested continuity between a1 and a2 and found .8 ohms. Lastly I tested continuity between a1/a2 and motor body with no continuity and s1/s2 to motor body with no continuity also a1 to s1 with no continuity. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks

You performed the motor test for a Series motor. Now perform the motor test for a SepEx motor...

[Tommyr1k]

How do I do that?


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[JohnnieB]

Does you cart have a run/Tow switch?

If it does it is a DCS (sepex drive)

[Tommyr1k]

I just have the forward/reverse lever


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[Tommyr1k]

Just performed a sep ex motor testing it worked. Thank you so much!!


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[JohnnieB]

I only glanced at your first post and then saw what Bob wrote, so I thought you had a sepex motor. Apparently you don't.

The reason it won't turn when power is applied on the bench is because it only has one bearing and when it isn't mounted to the differential, the armature will stick to a field winding shoe and cannot be moved by us mere mortals.

Do the Series motor test when mounted and it ought to run.

[BobBoyce]

I was going by his S1 to S2 winding resistance measurement. It indicated a SepEx motor. He did try it mounted first, and the Series test failed. When he tried the SepEx test, it passed.

[Tommyr1k]

I’m sorry guys I was mistaken when I said it didn’t have a tow/run switch. It does have one under the seat. Motor tested good. My next issue I’m having after installing 3 12v battery’s (for test purpose only) is I get no click from the solenoid. I have 37.9v at large lug battery side. 35.4 at large lug controller side. 37.9 at small lug (red/yel/yelwht side) and nothing at small lug blue wire side. I’ve removed the solenoid and jumped it with battery and it clicks however I get no resistance between large lugs so I know relay is shot and I ordered a new one but I still feel like I should at least be getting a click from it. I’m under the impression that the blue wire on the small lug grounds out the solenoid to complete the circuit so I removed blue wire and jumped to battery - and got nothing. I’m partially leaning towards a controller issue but I don’t have concrete evidence. Please help me!! Thanks


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[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

I was going by his S1 to S2 winding resistance measurement. It indicated a SepEx motor. He did try it mounted first, and the Series test failed. When he tried the SepEx test, it passed.

SepEx motor was my first impression, but stating he didn't have a run.tow switch threw me.