1999 club car ds won't move please read

[hansen13]

Hey all new to the forum, having this ridiculous issue with two of the exact same golf carts with the exact same symptoms.

They're both 99's 48V systems, sat in the same storage shed all winter at a local course and now won't move.

They were brought to my shop, where I tested everything I could think of. I'm a small engine mechanic but these golf carts are a whole other thing haha.

I verified that both have power when I turn key on. Goes from key switch, through tow/run switch, verified forward reverse switch functions when switched, also verified key power at multi step potentiometer, and when you press pedal power goes through other side. Then I traced that wire to the controller initially and it was good. But no power coming out. I bench tested solenoids etc and everything checks out. I then contacted a Club Car Rep who happened to be in my area who came to check them out and came to the same conclusion I did. The controllers were NFG. I ordered the proper controllers and installed in the one so far and still same symptoms. I can plug them in to charger, charger kicks up and they take a charge.

Batteries are GOOD, 51v +/- .5v and every battery has been load tested. Cables are all good. Can't get anything...

No reverse buzzer, no solenoid click nothing! I am a little chapped about it simply because I paid a rep to come have a look and after coming to the same conclusion I felt better about putting the money out for the parts for the guys. But they do not work. So ANY input is greatly appreciated asap of course haha. I tested resistance on each wire as well testing for breaks etc..

I feel like I've done everything, sorry for the long wind speech but wanna give the best details possible for my symptoms. Thanks a lot!

[NoleFan4Ever]

That is some good detailed work and very intuitive to not know carts.

The next this that needs to be checked is the solenoid (Main Contactor) in place. That is a Regen2 cart and the 2nd solenoid was for the Dynamic Braking.

(Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
At the solenoid small posts do the following:
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Pos Input)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Neg input)
If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it. If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing and you should hear it click.
3- Now with the solenoid closed in, place your DVM across the 2 large posts and you should read 0vdc.

[hansen13]

So I tested it as you stated.

Did the main pack negative to the blue wire, and got my full voltage.

On doing the main pack positive to blue white wire with my DVM it didn't read, so it seems as I've lost neg input somewhere?

So I disconnected the two small terminals, and I do have continuity across them 0.335 k-ohms. So I guess I'm looking at a solenoid? Thanks for that quick reply I appreciate it! We are starting to get a good collection of people wanting work done on these since our cart place has been closed a few years now so we definitely want to take this on just want to start getting my feet wet with them and learning so I'll be on here lots I'm sure until I'm comfortable!

[Fairtax4me]

The controller needs power input from the OBC, it needs input from the FnR switch, and it needs Throttle switch input from the microswitch in the throttle box. It has to have those before it will provide ground for the solenoids.
The Throttle MS gets power from the Key switch.
Tow/Run provides power via the OBC to the solenoids, FnR, and to a few pins on the controller.
If you're not getting solenoid activation, no ground side or negative input as Nole said, you need to make sure the controller is getting all of the correct inputs.

Rear wheels off the ground, Key ON, tow run in Run, Check pins 1 and 2 for 48V input.
Place the FnR in either F or R position Check pins 4 and 5, one of them should be 48 in F, the other 48 in R (I forget which is which.

Press the throttle so the switch clicks, check the Purple wire Pin 9 for 48V. I believe with all of those present you should get solenoid activation.

Main solenoid negative side wire Blue/White stripe controller pin 11 should have 48V, if the controller is giving solenoid activate command that 48 should drop to 0v when you press throttle with FnR in F or R.

http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/48vregen.jpg

[NoleFan4Ever]

That controller is looking for several permissives to be proven before it will supply the Negative. You need to verify you have all of them (Key On, Fwd or Rev, Throttle Microswitch, Run/Tow, OBC lockout). If you do and there is still no Neg being supplied from the controller to the solenoid, then the controller has failed.

If that is the case, I would not recommend another Regen2 controller as they are long since obsolete. Alltrax now makes an XCT-48300 specifically for this https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...roller-300-amp and it is virtually Plug & Play. Call David and discuss if you have any questions or concerns.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Dang, typing at the same time..... Lol

[hansen13]

I have this diagnostic chart. It's a gen 2 troubleshoot sequence guide. I run into problems at pin 1. I"m not getting pack voltage like it needs I'm only getting 33-36V where my pack voltage is 50.5V So the same goes with every pin I need pack voltage on I'm only getting roughly that by back probing the connector at the controller. So frustrating... What am I missing

[Fairtax4me]

Either a bad OBC, or Maybe a bad splice connection in the harness where all of these get power from.

Find the White and Blue wires at the OBC 6 pin connector. Check voltage on those, if the OBC is functioning properly you should have 48V coming out of the OBC on the Blue wire. If you do not have 48V there, Make sure the White wire has 48V, then jumper the White and Blue together and see if your voltage on the input pins at the controller comes up to 48V.

[hansen13]

I found the blue and white wires at the OBC 6 pin connector. And neither of them have pack voltage (48V) Am I looking at a bad OBC now too?

Also, I want to point out that I did some testing on the switches like they Key Sw, Fw/Rv Sw, Tow/Run Sw, and the Micro Switch on the Potentiometer.

I checked key power to the one side of the micro switch at key on off etc to make sure I'm getting power there which I am. So that makes me certain they Key Sw functions properly as well as the Potentiometer Micro Switch. The Fw/Rv Switch I traced the wires back to the controller plug and with key on make sure they are getting pack voltage when the direction is applied so that makes me certain that's also working.

[Fairtax4me]

The White wire at the OBC gets power from the Run Tow switch. The OBC then gives power to the Blue wire from that.

If the key switch has 48V, there is possibly a bad splice connection where the White, Black and Green wires meet between the Tow switch and the OBC. Where that is in the harness I don't exactly know.

Try Jumping 48V from the Main Pack Positive (use a fuse) to the White wire and see if the OBC allows power to the controller and solenoids.