RXV disabled

[gornoman]

NOTE: Disregard the Navitas printed instructions. I mean read them, but don’t do things in the order it says because you can’t. Watch their install video on YouTube or throw tools around. Your call.

Well I got it all crammed in there. It wasn’t easy for my bad back, even using a lift to help out. Would have been a breeze with the rear body shell removed, but that is hindsight at this point.
The Navitas kit I purchased is specific to the RXV with Danaher OEM controller. It is 600 amp and user programmable for speed, acceleration, and regenerative braking. It comes with a solid aluminum mount/heat sink, controller that accepts the RXV harness plug, and the On The Fly user programmer box which has a dedicated cable with household electric cord-sized plug on an 8 conductor cable. There is a Velcro patch installed on the back if you like that or there are threaded inserts in the back of the case for hard mounting from behind. Nice touch. The control box is optional. Once parameters are established it can be removed entirely. It all feels like high quality gear.
I upgraded our solenoid to the classic MZJ400 and this is where I ran out of real estate (height). Now if I had removed the body for this project I could have easily fabricated a nice mount for the much larger solenoid, but with the body on even taking proper measurements is impossible with the resources I have. So, yes, that IS a 4” electrical box cover holding up the solenoid which is 1/8” above the surface of the controller. AND, the seat touches the mount, barely, but it touches. I figure it will wear a groove into the wood and be fine. BTW, it’s sturdy AF and it’s galvanized, so I got THAT goin’ for me, which is nice.
There was one OEM harness electrical plug that was not used by the Navitas. It’s just hanging in there now. The OEM splash shield would no longer work so I cut it down to preserve the Run/Tow switch and safety label. I also mounted the reverse buzzer under it with two rivets. It moves around some if ya fiddle with it.

[nickdalzell1]

My trick to getting the last bolt out of a Danaher special is removing the right rear wheel and splash shield giving you easy access with a 15mm wrench.

RXVs are drive-by-wire and I feel the need to possibly return to college and get a degree in electronics soon. Think Danaher cars are bad to work on? Try the Curtis ones that replace them. Every code in the handheld is wrong. Get one for 'throttle fault' it's the speed sensor every time. EM brake coil missing? Check controller. Main contactor did not close? It's a bad battery. I hate RXVs. I despise modern EZGO at this point.

"The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain!"

~ Scotty, Star Trek III: The Search for Spock.

[Imapled]

Originally Posted by gornoman

NOTE: Disregard the Navitas printed instructions. I mean read them, but don’t do things in the order it says because you can’t. Watch their install video on YouTube or throw tools around. Your call.

I am a certified tech for Navitas controllers and yes, there are a few good video's for the install. The one that Navitas has is good but, there are a few loose ends left over in the install that people always ask about. Mostly the old programmer plug... What to do with it? The manual is a bit cumbersome but, they are working on an update as well the folks at Golf Carts Modified (Facebook) are producing high-quality install videos as well.

For example Ryan just posted the TXT48 install for the 5kw kit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5z2Uefip0U

If anyone has questions regarding their install you can also contact Navitas directly. They have good techs who are quick to reply as well.

Originally Posted by gornoman

Well I got it all crammed in there. It wasn’t easy for my bad back, even using a lift to help out. Would have been a breeze with the rear body shell removed, but that is hindsight at this point.

I have installed a number of these now in RXV's and I now remove the rear body as you suggested. That third bolt on the old controllers is a pain to get at indeed.

Originally Posted by gornoman

The Navitas kit I purchased is specific to the RXV with Danaher OEM controller. It is 600 amp and user programmable for speed, acceleration, and regenerative braking.

Interestingly all the TAC2 controllers cores are the same. The only thing that changes is the mounted adapter. Technically you can remove the two screws and swap out that plug with any of the other ones and download the firmware and use it with a TXT48 harness, Yamaha, etc... I have had the pleasure of standing on the factory floor and watch them assemble them from start to finish. Elegant design for sure.

Originally Posted by gornoman

It comes with a solid aluminum mount/heat sink, controller that accepts the RXV harness plug, and the On The Fly user programmer box which has a dedicated cable with household electric cord-sized plug on an 8 conductor cable.

The OTF is an interesting unit. For mounting there are a few things you can do to "hack" it so the cable routes to the back of the case so you can flush mount it. I posted a whole walk through on Golf Carts Modified Facebook group on how to do it if you are interested.

Originally Posted by gornoman

There is a Velcro patch installed on the back if you like that or there are threaded inserts in the back of the case for hard mounting from behind. Nice touch.

As mentioned above I often re-route the wire to the back of the OTF (on the fly) unit to the back and flush mount it to the dash of the RXV.

Originally Posted by gornoman

The control box is optional. Once parameters are established it can be removed entirely.

Actually, you don't need the OTF. Everything can be done through the Navitas Bluetooth application. You don't even need to install the OTF. I have done a number of installs where the customer didn't want the OTF. It is more convenient to have the OTF but, it is not mandatory nor needed to program the settings. Everything can be done through the bluetooth app.

Originally Posted by gornoman

It all feels like high quality gear.

I have been to the factory a number of times and seen the full engineering specs on it. They have a very cool setup and their testing equipment and process is all top-notch stuff. Navitas is based in the heart of the Silicon Valley of the North (Waterloo, Ontario) and they have access to some of the best engineers in the world. Some incredible things are made in that area and some high-end technology. No shortage of smart people in Waterloo, Ontario.

Originally Posted by gornoman

I upgraded our solenoid to the classic MZJ400 and this is where I ran out of real estate (height). Now if I had removed the body for this project I could have easily fabricated a nice mount for the much larger solenoid, but with the body on even taking proper measurements is impossible with the resources I have. So, yes, that IS a 4” electrical box cover holding up the solenoid which is 1/8” above the surface of the controller.

I have done similar but, I now make a mount plate for those MJZ400 solenoids. And yes, it is much easier to place everything with the back body off the cart. :)

Originally Posted by gornoman

AND, the seat touches the mount, barely, but it touches. I figure it will wear a groove into the wood and be fine. BTW, it’s sturdy AF and it’s galvanized, so I got THAT goin’ for me, which is nice.

You can sand the seat and make some room so you are not forcing it too.

Originally Posted by gornoman

There was one OEM harness electrical plug that was not used by the Navitas. It’s just hanging in there now. The OEM splash shield would no longer work so I cut it down to preserve the Run/Tow switch and safety label. I also mounted the reverse buzzer under it with two rivets. It moves around some if ya fiddle with it.

I remove the t/r switch and make a little angle bracket and mount it to the plate that the TAC2 is on. If you look at that video I linked from GCMod on the TAC2 install in a TXT they use a similar thing to mount the TXT T/R switch.

I have installed a number of these TAC2 controllers in burned up Danahers. 23 of them to be exact. Not one has gone down and never a single issue with them.

If you are a facebook user, join Golf Carts Modified group and post up a message about getting access to the "Dealer App" from Navitas and one of the tech's or sales person will contact you and get you a copy of it. The "dealer app" which is also runs on mobile devices opens up a bunch of other settings for you. The generic one that you can download off the app store is ok but, with the dealer app you can do a lot more.

I use the OEM programmer and can make my own motor profiles etc... Its has hundreds of settings not intended for the general public. They also have a "developer" level app but, that is for developing the core firmware. I have seen it and got a walk through of it all. Not necessary for me as the OEM app does everything I need for the weird stuff I do.

If you join Golf Carts Modified and post up a request for the dealer app I can send you some really nifty settings changes to try out. :)

Cheers,
Impaled

[gornoman]

First impressions:

Man, this thing is FAST! Connected the OTF box and turned the speed all the way up and saw 25mph on my stock tire/wheel combo. Next I turned Acceleration to max, got my 300+ pound body behind the wheel and floored it. Front wheels lifted a few inches off the ground!

After making ten or so high speed runs up and down our 1/4 mile paved driveway I noticed the onboard battery gauge was showing just over 1/2 full. It was freshly charged when I started today, so yes, this kind of performance and speed costs energy! All cables, solenoid, controller and motor are cool to the touch however.

Needless to say this unit will get toned down by 40%, but I can now vouch for the Navitas claims. They did their homework and got it right.

[jakesnake27]

Very cool Gman!

I wasn't sure about Navitas at first, but now after seeing several very positive claims on the forum, I'm convinced it's quality stuff.