2000 36 volt DS has power even when ignition is off.

[W1ngin1t]

Hi folks! A weird problem I’m having….

Cart was running just fine…all batteries charged….hadn’t used it in a while….had the wife and grand babies on it and the batteries got so hot they discolored the chrome on the outside of the cart(smelled of electrical short too).

Shut it down and noticed battery cables had corrosion….replaced them all with 2 gauge wires (old ones looked original) Now the issue is the cart will run even when the ignition is off. (I completely removed the ignition switch and it still has power) can’t for the life of me figure it out. Solenoid maybe. All thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! Mark

[Fairtax4me]

Does your cart have a controller or does it have a block of toaster coils right behind the batteries?

[W1ngin1t]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Does your cart have a controller or does it have a block of toaster coils right behind the batteries?

Toaster coils….

[Mooncarter]

Most likely solenoid is stuck.

Does it disengage (unclick) when in N?

[W1ngin1t]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Most likely solenoid is stuck.

Does it disengage (unclick) when in N?

Yes….power draw stops as soon as I put it in neutral. I do not hear the solenoid click….but you can hear the arc on the forward/reverse switch.

[Fairtax4me]

and the batteries got so hot they discolored the chrome on the outside of the cart(smelled of electrical short too).

Thinking about it more, this is very much a clue that there is wiring or cabling shorted to the frame of the cart. Is the damaged trim piece metal/aluminum? Or is it plastic?
There's no reason batteries would get hot enough to damage external body parts unless they were literally on fire. They might get warm, but you usually need 400-500°+ hundred to discolor metal. Temps that high would melt the batteries down to a lump of molten plastic.
This sounds to me like your trim piece was carrying current, as in the battery pack was somehow shorted to the frame and the piece was the pathway for that electricity to get back to the pack negative.

Lots of possiblities for where that could occur.
Did you replace ALL of the cables, even the ones that go to the V-glide, motor, FnR switch, and resistor block?

Even if the solenoid is stuck the FnR should not be arcing when you switch it. I think you may also have burned contacts or wire damage in the V-glide which is allowing current to get to the motor even when your pedal is all the way up.
The solenoid should be checked to see if the main contacts are welded together, by removing one of the large cables and checking continuity across the main posts. IF there is continuity the solenoid needs to be replaced.

The V-glide also needs to be checked, and all cabling from V-glide, motor, solenoid, FnR switch needs to be checked before going any further.
Raise the rear wheels Off the ground, and Disconnect the battery pack until you have inspected everything.

[W1ngin1t]

interesting……I thought the same thing about the short to ground. I checked every cable….at least I thought I did and didn’t see anything. And yes the chrome piece is metal.
Also, I only replaced the battery cables 7 all together.
I have a solenoid on the way and will look further into the other things you mentioned.

My first thoughts were the cart just got a lift kit and was thinking maybe they pinched a wire somewhere….but that is not the case.

Gotta love electrical issues! Thanks for your input…..definitely more investigating is necessary!

[W1ngin1t]

So….the “white” cable coming from the speed switch to the solenoid is always hot…(19.6 volts) &even when the key is off. When I disconnect it from the solenoid the power (arcing)to the F/R switch stops.

Thoughts?

[Fairtax4me]

It will be if the solenoid is welded and the V-glide is also burned. That's why you need to check the solenoid and V-glide like I said above.
The two of those being damaged is sending power to the motor at all times which can cause a run-away condition. (Mooncarter can tell you how fun that is) Which is why I said wheels off the ground, and pack disconnected until you inspect everything.

[W1ngin1t]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

It will be if the solenoid is welded and the V-glide is also burned. That's why you need to check the solenoid and V-glide like I said above.
The two of those being damaged is sending power to the motor at all times which can cause a run-away condition. (Mooncarter can tell you how fun that is) Which is why I said wheels off the ground, and pack disconnected until you inspect everything.

I listened to your advice….Power is disconnected….put the ohm meter to the solenoid at both big posts with one cable removed and it showed zero on the meter. So now I wait for the solenoid, should be here Tuesday. As far as testing the V-slide I have no clue.

I do appreciate your input…thank you!