04 Precedent Stretch Build (electrical issue)

[antatich]

Ok I said screw it and just put a new solenoid and diode in. (Original solenoid and diode)

No change.

I do hear the solenoid energize.

No reverse buzzer on jack stands.

Tested the small connections on the solenoid and have 52+ volts. Tested pin 12 and have the same.

Does this now mean I need a controller?


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[antatich]

O and no change with the “tap” method


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[WalterM6]

If the solenoid energizes that means that the logic and all conditions for the cart to run have been met and it's commanding the cart to run. If the OBC has you locked out, the solenoid wouldn't energize. BTW The backup buzzer could be bad. That leaves the power section of the controller, the solenoid itself or the motor. I'm attaching a diagram on how to test the motor w/o using the controller. Don't forget, rear wheels off the ground for testing.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

If the solenoid energizes that means that the logic and all conditions for the cart to run have been met and it's commanding the cart to run. If the OBC has you locked out, the solenoid wouldn't energize. BTW The backup buzzer could be bad. That leaves the power section of the controller, the solenoid itself or the motor. I'm attaching a diagram on how to test the motor w/o using the controller. Don't forget, rear wheels off the ground for testing.

Walter, it just occurred to me that you can't do this motor test with a lithium battery setup. I guess you would need to use a 12 volt FLA battery.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by antatich

O and no change with the “tap” method


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Check what Walter said, and also check across the large solenoid terminals with your VOM. Across them pedal up, 48 volts nominal. Across them pedal down, 0 volts.

If you have 0 volts with pedal down, check for 48 volts at the motor and controller terminals with the pedal down.