Ds iq alltrax issues. Pin 6 always has 49.8v

[Jameybeal]

So a little back story my 2005 ds iq took a dump on me a couple months ago. Controller was suspected bad. Suspected because it all the sudden the buggy quit and the diode would get smoking hot on the solenoid. So replaced it with a alltraxt xct 500 amp controller, 400 amp solenoid and 2 gauge wires. My motor has been making a lot of noise so I replaced it with a gently used oem motor. Went to fire it up and nothing. Pedal position showed up accurately on the alltrax software but it wouldn’t move the wheels. I also replaced the obc because the one on it had some burnt spots. After talking to tech support at alltrax the controller is good but for some reason the foot switch input stays on all the time on the software. They instructed me to replace the mcor as they figured the foot switch was bad. Replaced it and still the same. I have 49.8vdc between B- and pin 6 on thr 16 pin connector all the time. Any idea why I would always have that? I cut the green wire and if I separate them then put them back together the buggy works again but if I ever turn the key switch off I have to separate them and reconnect them to operate again. Any ideas?

[Tom47]

The green wire on pin 6 should only have 48v+ when the footswitch is activated as you already surmised.

I would trace the green wire from pin 6 all the way back to the MCOR. Make sure it goes directly to the 2 pin plug on the MCOR and nowhere else. It is possible there is a short between the blue keyswitch wire and the green wire in the harness somewhere.

Peel off all of the loom when you trace the wires and make sure something isn't pinching those 2 together.

Does the solenoid click as soon as you turn the keyswitch on?

[Fairtax4me]

I would first suspect an issue with the pedal not returning all the way. Check the adjustment of the return spring for the pedal and make sure the pedal comes all the way back up so you can hear the MCOR click when it returns to the top. Ideally you should have about 1/2” to 3/4” or pedal movement before the MCOR clicks.
Also check that the linkage rod for the MCOR has not been bent or modified in such a way that prevents the MCOR from being able to return all the way back. If the linkage rod is wedged or has been altered or is damaged due to impact replace it.
Verify the pedal returns all the way to the point the MCOR clicks first, then chase wire problems.

[Tom47]

A good possibility.

[Jameybeal]

Originally Posted by Tom47

The green wire on pin 6 should only have 48v+ when the footswitch is activated as you already surmised.

I would trace the green wire from pin 6 all the way back to the MCOR. Make sure it goes directly to the 2 pin plug on the MCOR and nowhere else. It is possible there is a short between the blue keyswitch wire and the green wire in the harness somewhere.

Peel off all of the loom when you trace the wires and make sure something isn't pinching those 2 together.

Does the solenoid click as soon as you turn the keyswitch on?

Thank you for the reply. Yes the solenoid clocks immediately, after tracing it the green wire from pin6 goes to a sonic weld with a yellow wire going to the obc and the rest of the green wire goes to the foot switch. But about 6 inches before it hits the foot switch there is a tan connector with both green and blue wires all in one. But it’s been like that so far Jen I get home I will remove it and butt connect/shrink wrap them n but couldn’t find anywhere else in the wire that looks suspicious.

[Jameybeal]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

I would first suspect an issue with the pedal not returning all the way. Check the adjustment of the return spring for the pedal and make sure the pedal comes all the way back up so you can hear the MCOR click when it returns to the top. Ideally you should have about 1/2” to 3/4” or pedal movement before the MCOR clicks.
Also check that the linkage rod for the MCOR has not been bent or modified in such a way that prevents the MCOR from being able to return all the way back. If the linkage rod is wedged or has been altered or is damaged due to impact replace it.
Verify the pedal returns all the way to the point the MCOR clicks first, then chase wire problems.

Thank you for the suggestion. I thought the same too but the foot switch contacts are open until I press the pedal. Also for giggles I hooked the old mcor4 up with it off the cart and same problem.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Jameybeal

Thank you for the reply. Yes the solenoid clocks immediately, after tracing it the green wire from pin6 goes to a sonic weld with a yellow wire going to the obc and the rest of the green wire goes to the foot switch. But about 6 inches before it hits the foot switch there is a tan connector with both green and blue wires all in one. But it’s been like that so far Jen I get home I will remove it and butt connect/shrink wrap them n but couldn’t find anywhere else in the wire that looks suspicious.

The tan, blue(s) and light blue are 48v from the keyswitch. The green should not be connected to them.

The blue is the supply to the footswitch and the green is the outlet of the footswitch which goes to pin 6 and also a sonic weld splice to a yellow wire that goes to the OBC.

Make sure the green is on one side of the footswitch and the blue is on the other side and it should work properly.

If you can make it out, this should be your wiring diagram, post # 10.

[Jameybeal]

Not sure how it worked before with the og controller but the green and blue wire at the foot switch had a splicing connector on it. Removed the splice and butt connected them as well heat shrinked. it’s working like a champ now. Thank you for the suggestions

[Tom47]

You're welcome! I'm not sure why it was like that. Maybe there is another explanation for it having been done that way.

If a previous owner had a bad micro switch in the mcor, they may have spliced it to be able to run it. If you are the original owner, I have no other explanation.

I'm glad it is running correctly for you now!