48 V Club Car Precedent 15 AMP Tow/ Run Fuse Keeps Blowing

[watkinsn1]

I own a 48 Volt 2016 Club Car Precedent. I recently upgraded my batteries from lead acid to Lithium. The Lithium Batteries are 4-12V (48V) Dakota Lithium Batteries, wired in series. At first when I received the batteries, they provided me with a wiring diagram that I thought was wrong but without knowing any better I went ahead and wired them up the way the diagram showed since I thought lithium batteries may be different. (See attached) picture for Dakota Lithium Battery diagram that was provided with my battery kit. When I connected the negative terminal, a very large arc happened, and it blew both the 15 Amp TOW/RUN fuse and the 10 Amp Fuse for the lights. This caused me to do some research on the batteries. They require a 400 AMP limit Motor Controller. I went ahead and bought a 600 AMP Navitas Motor Controller, 400 AMP Solenoid (1000AMP Max), 400 AMP resistor, and upgraded my main cables to 2 gauge. I installed all of my new parts back to the way it was installed originally. As soon as I flipped the tow/run switch to run, the 15 AMP fuse blows. After recollecting my thoughts on the install, I remembered that I took out the original SLA charger cables from the wiring hence that I wouldn't be using them to charge my batteries. I recently reinstalled them, and now the fuse doesn't blow when I turn on the tow/run switch, it now blows when I turn on the ignition switch. I have become very frustrated with this whole process because I originally thought it was going to be a drop-in replacement but now, I'm $1500 into this after the batteries. Could the ignition switch be faulty causing everything else to not work? Lights won't turn on as well. Or is there something that was fried during the original install, with the faulty wiring diagram that could have potentially burnt out a crucial wiring component. I've tried to find the 2016 Club Car Precedent wiring diagram but have come up short. HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED!! Let me know if you need any additional information. Thank you too all!

[Fairtax4me]

If your battery wiring is done the way the photo instructs then it is correct. 12v batteries need to be wired in Series (cables running - to + from one battery to the next) in order to get the ~48v target voltage.

Your fuses popping are because of a different issue.
Are your lights wired to 48+ on the battery positive? They should not be, and are likely fried if they are. Lights need to have a 48 to 12v reducer to provide power. If you do not have a reducer then any wiring for the lights need to be disconnected.

Any wiring for your charger should be removed for now. This wiring will only need to be connected to the Main + and - terminals on the pack.

On your solenoid it appears your coil diode is backwards which will cause the fuse to blow when you turn the key. The stripe side of the diode needs to be towards the Light Blue wire.

[watkinsn1]

Greatly appreciate the reply on this busy weekend. According to the battery install instructions, if you look closely, it has one (-) and one (+) terminal open on the series. I contacted Dakota Lithium and they admitted that isn't right. This causing the large arc when I connected the negative terminal lead. My lights are wired directly to a 48V to 12V reducer located under the front right side of the cart. The information on the coil diode is greatly appreciated! I ordered a new ignition switch since that essentially controls the flow of current from the battery pack to the controller and to the motor. If my ignition switch is fried, would this cause all of the other problems? EX: No lights and no power to the Moter.

[Fairtax4me]

I didn’t look at it very close then because I didn’t catch that

The key switch doesn’t control the flow of power to anywhere except the solenoid, and that is only low current power, maybe 2-3 amps at most. The other places it supplies power to are very low current signals. Very unlikely that is or has any problem, since there are other things that can/will be damaged first.

If you have a reduced wired in, oh do need to make sure the primary power for the reduced comes straight from the pack, and Not from the key switch. The key switch can only be used for the remote “On” function for a reducer, which is only a low current signal. If it’s only a 4 wire reducer with no key switch “On” wire, no part of it should be connected to the key switch wiring.