Bench Testing Speed Sensor RXV

[Jdl_66]

Has anybody ever done a bench test on their speed sensor?

I performed the troubleshooting instructions from the Navitas manual and it recommended to replace the speed sensor. I purchased one on Amazon and installed it, but the diagnostic still indicate a speed encoder fault.

I'm just wondering if I got a bad speed sensor delivered.

I used a magnetic and performed a continuity check on each pin with no change.

[Imapled]

You need an oscilloscope to test an encoder.

Search for "test motor encoder" on Google. Fluke has some videos on how to test various encoders.

9 times out of 10 when you can't see the encoder on a Navitas controller its an issue in the harness and NOT the encoder or the controller.

How to test continuance on the encoder port (aka speed sensor port):

On the RXV encoders there are 4 wires.

1. +5Vdc to power the encoder
2. Ground
3. SPD B
4. SPD A

On the harness you want to test continuance from the port that plugs into the Navitas controller to the port that plugs into the encoder.

Curtis mapping:

Port 26 should map to the +5Vdc input on the encoder port.
Port 31 should map to SPD A input on the encoder port.
Port 32 should map to SPD B input on the encoder port.
Port 7 should map to Ground input on the encoder port.

By port I mean the numbered pin position on the big plug that plugs into the Navitas controller. Look at the plug, you will see it has numbers printed on it.

If you probe both ends with the continuance test of a multimeter it should buzz. If it doesn't buzz something is broken between those two points and the encoder won't work. You need all 4 to buzz through for the encoder to work.

I am too lazy to do the Danaher point maps. YOu can pull them off this wire diagram.

https://www.navitasvs.com/_files/ugd...6c7ee26320.pdf

As well, if you are not aware. Navitas provides live same-day customer telephone support 9-5 ET by calling 844-576-2499 (Toll-Free). You talk to an actual engineer.

If you fill out this contact form as well and leave your contact number a Navitas Tech will also call you too.

https://www.navitasvs.com/contact

This forum is probably the worst place to get support. You would have better luck on the Navitas Facebook. All the engineers and sales reps and certified installers (such as me) are active on the forum answering questions there as well.

[Jdl_66]

Originally Posted by Imapled

You need an oscilloscope to test an encoder.

Search for "test motor encoder" on Google. Fluke has some videos on how to test various encoders.

9 times out of 10 when you can't see the encoder on a Navitas controller its an issue in the harness and NOT the encoder.

How to test continuance on the encoder port (aka speed sensor port):

On the RXV encoders there are 4 wires.

1. +5Vdc to power the encoder
2. Ground
3. SPD B
4. SPD A

On the harness you want to test continuance from the port that plugs into the Navitas controller to the port that plugs into the encoder.

Curtis mapping:

Port 26 should map to the +5Vdc input on the encoder port.
Port 31 should map to SPD A input on the encoder port.
Port 32 should map to SPD B input on the encoder port.
Port 7 should map to Ground input on the encoder port.

By port I mean the numbered pin position on the big plug that plugs into the Navitas controller. Look at the plug, you will see it has numbers printed on it.

If you probe both ends with the continuance test of a multimeter it should buzz. If it doesn't buzz something is broken between those two points and the encoder won't work. You need all 4 to buzz through for the encoder to work.

I am too lazy to do the Danaher point maps. YOu can pull them off this wire diagram.

https://www.navitasvs.com/_files/ugd...6c7ee26320.pdf

As well, if you are not aware. Navitas provides live same-day customer telephone support 9-5 ET by calling 844-576-2499 (Toll-Free). You talk to an actual engineer.

If you fill out this contact form as well and leave your contact number a Navitas Tech will also call you too.

https://www.navitasvs.com/contact

This forum is probably the worst place to get support. You would have better luck on the Navitas Facebook. All the engineers and sales reps and certified installers (such as me) are active on the forum answering questions there as well.

Thanks. I already verified the wires have continuity going across all 4 wires. +5 VDC is present. I performed the Navitas troubleshooting section where it instructs to jumper the SPD reference to ground and I see the change in the diagnostics menu.

It was a Curtis to Navitas conversion after the batteries were dead and charged and determined the controller was faulty on top of rodents chewing up some of the wiring, but I have definitely checked the wiring from the controller connector to the speed encoder. I will give Navitas a call. Thanks

[Imapled]

Originally Posted by Jdl_66

Thanks. I already verified the wires have continuity going across all 4 wires. +5 VDC is present. I performed the Navitas troubleshooting section where it instructs to jumper the SPD reference to ground and I see the change in the diagnostics menu.

It was a Curtis to Navitas conversion after the batteries were dead and charged and determined the controller was faulty on top of rodents chewing up some of the wiring, but I have definitely checked the wiring from the controller connector to the speed encoder. I will give Navitas a call. Thanks

One thing I often do is chop off the legacy port that plugs into the encoder in the motor and put a Deutsch DT 4 pin plug on. I find the generic plugs that EZGO uses some times when they snap together don't make good connections.

If you do replace the plugs use barrel crimp DT pins. You will need to fold the wire over as well as they are really thin wires.

[Jdl_66]

Originally Posted by Imapled

One thing I often do is chop off the legacy port that plugs into the encoder in the motor and put a Deutsch DT 4 pin plug on. I find the generic plugs that EZGO uses some times when they snap together don't make good connections.

If you do replace the plugs use barrel crimp DT pins. You will need to fold the wire over as well as they are really thin wires.

I did think about that, but found it to be more extra work and relied on the connection. I'll give it a shot and see if it works. Thanks!

[Jdl_66]

Originally Posted by Imapled

One thing I often do is chop off the legacy port that plugs into the encoder in the motor and put a Deutsch DT 4 pin plug on. I find the generic plugs that EZGO uses some times when they snap together don't make good connections.

If you do replace the plugs use barrel crimp DT pins. You will need to fold the wire over as well as they are really thin wires.

I realized while troubleshooting the golf cart, the system was around 47VDC. I left it charging overnight, and tried again this morning, and I was able to get the wheels spinning.

Thanks again for the help.