Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch

[texrock]

Okay... '98 TXT. I replaced the inductor coil for the accelerator. After that, I only got a solenoid 'click' when depressing the pedal with no movement. After a couple of "friends" tried to fix the cart by shorting across the solenoid leads, I even lost the solenoid click. I later found that my original problem was that I had missed a spade connector connection in the accelerator box. Replaced the lead with still no movement. I have found that if I jump from B+ to either the red lead on the solenoid, or any lead at the F/R micros, I get movement and everything seems to be fine! Also, I get about 1/2 volt difference from the battery leads at the solenoid. Any ideas or should I just chance replacing the solenoid?

[rabbitreborn]

Here is the solenoid activation circuit. Test each place along the circuit to see where you are losing power at:

TXT solenoid activation
Power starts on the White wire on the 36+ of the battery pack.
Power travels to the charger receptacle, goes through a reed switch inside the receptacle and comes out on the red 12 gauge red wire. ( check for power here, 1st!)
The red wire travels back through the loom to the Forward and reverse switch where it attaches to a micro.
The other side of that micro has a blue wire attached that runs under the cart to the front and arrives at the keyswitch.
The keyswitch then transfers power to a green wire which returns to the area of the Forward and Reverse switch.
the power then goes through a 4 pin Molex connector and travels to the "pedal Box" (located under the floorboard of the car) where it goes through a micro and comes out on another red wire.
That red wire comes back up to the Controller/F&R area where it once again goes through the 4 pin molex connector and continues on to the small post of the solenoid.

[scottyb]

Pssst ......copy and save that, there's going to be a test on it later

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

here is the solenoid activation circuit. Test each place along the circuit to see where you are losing power at:

Txt solenoid activation
power starts on the white wire on the 36+ of the battery pack.
Power travels to the charger receptacle, goes through a reed switch inside the receptacle and comes out on the red 12 gauge red wire. ( check for power here, 1st!)
the red wire travels back through the loom to the forward and reverse switch where it attaches to a micro.
The other side of that micro has a blue wire attached that runs under the cart to the front and arrives at the keyswitch.
The keyswitch then transfers power to a green wire which returns to the area of the forward and reverse switch.
The power then goes through a 4 pin molex connector and travels to the "pedal box" (located under the floorboard of the car) where it goes through a micro and comes out on another red wire.
That red wire comes back up to the controller/f&r area where it once again goes through the 4 pin molex connector and continues on to the small post of the solenoid.

sticky!

[rabbitreborn]

yes, please do... I keep having to go back and find previous posts because I can never remember where I saved it on my hard drive lmao......

[scottyb]

There's a notebook in the user cp Fill it full of the chit you have to post and post and post .....

[rabbitreborn]

thanks, that'll save me a heap of time......

[scottyb]

[texrock]

Thanks for the help. Surely I can get it from here!

[TxOutlaw]

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

Here is the solenoid activation circuit. Test each place along the circuit to see where you are losing power at:

TXT solenoid activation
Power starts on the White wire on the 36+ of the battery pack.
Power travels to the charger receptacle, goes through a reed switch inside the receptacle and comes out on the red 12 gauge red wire. ( check for power here, 1st!)
The red wire travels back through the loom to the Forward and reverse switch where it attaches to a micro.
The other side of that micro has a blue wire attached that runs under the cart to the front and arrives at the keyswitch.
The keyswitch then transfers power to a green wire which returns to the area of the Forward and Reverse switch.
the power then goes through a 4 pin Molex connector and travels to the "pedal Box" (located under the floorboard of the car) where it goes through a micro and comes out on another red wire.
That red wire comes back up to the Controller/F&R area where it once again goes through the 4 pin molex connector and continues on to the small post of the solenoid.

I’m not getting 36v from the reed, more like 6ish... is this right? I need to follow this to the FR and Ignition yet but not sure what voltage should be... great write up, just what I was looking for!