98 TXT has no power with new batteries

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by MartinEZGo

Sounds expensive. $465 for the controller, $125 for 4g wires, $175 for FnR switch, $200 for 2 new batteries to make it 48v and then a new 48v charger for another $200 equalling @ $1200. I want it fixed but obviously I am going to have to take it in stages. Where do I start? Johnnie, it will run fine but loses a lot of speed on hills.

Back in post#3 you said it lost speed on hills with stock tires and rims. (Rims don't matter, just tire height)
All carts with series wound motors slow down on hills, but if your cart slows more than a stock cart typically does, the problem is either weak batteries or excessive resistance in the high current loop. Since you have new batteries, the high current cables, F/R switch and solenoid are at the top of the suspect list.

The tall tires will require going to a 400A or greater Controller and the rest of the high current loop will have to be capable of delivering those amps to the motor, but you can do it in stages.

If anything is hot after climbing a hill, that is what I would replace first.

My guess is that replacing the 13 or 14 high current cables with 4Ga (or larger) will get you pretty close to stock performance on stock height tires.
If not, replace the F/R (with a HD assembly since you will be running 23" tires) and then the solenoid. (Again with a HD unit - at least 200A continous, but solenoids and controllers often come as kits and are usually upgraded at same time)

A 400A controller (or larger) will allow the stock motor to draw the amps needed to turn the tall tires and go up hills without loosing as much speed.

After upgrading to this point, you can go to 48V if you want more speed.
Because amp draw for the same amount of torque is about 1/3 less at 48V than it is at 36V, you will end up with more torque also since you can deliver 14.4 kW (19.3HP)to the motor with a 400A controller at 36V and 19.2kW (25.7HP) at 48V.

BTW- Stock is 9.9kW (13.3HP), but I suspect you are loosing a lot of that to heat in the cables and components.

Also, someplace along the line, I would replace that LED bargraph SoC meter with a DVM type, so you can actually see what the battery voltage is.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Digita...ry_Meters.html

[scottyb]

Loosing speed on hills is the most common complaint we hear about golf carts.
They do tend to slow under load, it is just the nature of the beast. If the problem is extreme then you may have a worn motor or corroded cables (delivery system). Putting the big tires on it was sort of like putting the big spade bit on the drill, it's gonna slow the motor down.

[MartinEZGo]

I will load the kids on it with me this afternoon and hit a hill just outside the neighborhood to see if things heat up under the seat. I may be mistaken but I don't think it heated up last time. So would my money be best spent by replacing the motor and adding lower gauge wires first? Then moving to the controller and solenoid? Seems like both would take @ $400-500 to swap at a time. I know it's a 98 model and has lived part of its life at a beach due to some corrosion on the steel. What about grease in the rear end? Johnnie, I looked at he gauge on ScottyBs site and will order one of those as well. I really appreciate all of you guys helping me out. On a side note, how do I post a picture of my cart at my member name?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by MartinEZGo

I will load the kids on it with me this afternoon and hit a hill just outside the neighborhood to see if things heat up under the seat. I may be mistaken but I don't think it heated up last time. So would my money be best spent by replacing the motor and adding lower gauge wires first? Then moving to the controller and solenoid? Seems like both would take @ $400-500 to swap at a time. I know it's a 98 model and has lived part of its life at a beach due to some corrosion on the steel. What about grease in the rear end? Johnnie, I looked at he gauge on ScottyBs site and will order one of those as well. I really appreciate all of you guys helping me out. On a side note, how do I post a picture of my cart at my member name?

Replacing the motor would be towards the bottom of the list, unless it needs some TLC, then a quick trip to Plum Quick ought to take care of it.
http://www.plumquick.com/

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The rear end has about 10 oz of 30W oil in it.
What body style do you have TXT (plastic) or Medalist (Metal)
I might be able to point you to a service manual.

Plug your serial number in here and it'll tell you what it was when it left the factory. http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

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The easiest way to post pictures is attach them to your post using the paper clip next top the Smiley Face.
They will have to be resized down to 1024(H) X 2048 (W) or 1.91MB (which is huge).

[MartinEZGo]

It is def a 98 EZGo TXT 36V according to the site you sent. So the controller/solenoid is the best place to start then?

[scottyb]

New batteries are 75% of their potential until broken in. This may take 20 cycles.
The delivery system is the first place to start improvements. You a good fresh set of cables and HD F&R before your system is ready for a bigger controller.

[subby44]

Scottyb!!! I have the alltrax 400 Controller pkg from you... I did not order the h/d fr swich for my 36v dcs It is a 1996... If i add one of those will i see a change in performance.. where would i notice it? it runs about 20 to 23mph now... will i see more torqur or what... I am not understanding something... TIA

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by subby44

Scottyb!!! I have the alltrax 400 Controller pkg from you... I did not order the h/d fr swich for my 36v dcs It is a 1996... If i add one of those will i see a change in performance.. where would i notice it? it runs about 20 to 23mph now... will i see more torqur or what... I am not understanding something... TIA

Subby, your DCS cart does not require a F/R upgrade, only Series carts do. DCS carts handle direction changes inside the controller.

[Gonkulor]

Originally Posted by MartinEZGo

It is def a 98 EZGo TXT 36V according to the site you sent. So the controller/solenoid is the best place to start then?

Martin you have a Series cart like I. I got an upgraded FNR, cables, and controller from Scotty. My cart marches up the hills better than it did before i got those upgrades. I'm running 23" tires btw.

Originally Posted by subby44

Scottyb!!! I have the alltrax 400 Controller pkg from you... I did not order the h/d fr swich for my 36v dcs It is a 1996... If i add one of those will i see a change in performance.. where would i notice it? it runs about 20 to 23mph now... will i see more torqur or what... I am not understanding something... TIA

Subby, you are on the correct path. You have upgraded your current delivery device but your still bottlenecking the current by means of stock FNR and wires, contactor.

If your cart is a series version you will not get more speed unless you get more voltage, but upgrading those components mentioned will offer the cart a larger stream of current for all the work to stay normal even if you go up a hill.

Hope that makes sense.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by subby44

Scottyb!!! I have the alltrax 400 Controller pkg from you... I did not order the h/d fr swich for my 36v dcs It is a 1996... If i add one of those will i see a change in performance.. where would i notice it? it runs about 20 to 23mph now... will i see more torqur or what... I am not understanding something... TIA

DCS is a sepex drive system.You do not need to upgrade your F&R as it sends a low amperage signal to the control. The controller does the high amperage switching.
In a series cart (like this one) the actual high amperage that is going to the motor goes through the F&R.