*NEWB* 2004 TXT PDS no-go

[jaybass73]

Alright, I'll be as descriptive as I can. I picked up a 04 TXT PDS, did not run for 2-3 years at least. The batteries were fairly new, I ran continuity tests through each wire to ensure good connection. I jumped the motor using help from this forum with a 12v jumper pack and got the wheels to spin both directions. I checked continuity through the pedal microswitch, that was good. Verified all wiring was connected in accordance with the diagram. The FNR switch verified continuity in each position. The current key switch is a rocker installed by someone before me, now waiting for my key switch to come in. I deemed the controller to be bad, so I bought a re manufactured stock one, and installed it tonight. Hooked everything up and still nothing. The solenoid will not click, the reverse beeper makes no sound, the cart makes no attempt to move. Got questions about the solenoid though. The blue and yellow wire on the diagram area little unclear, currently the yellow wire is closest to the battery cable terminal, and the blue wire is on the other. When power is hooked up, the resistor gets really hot, when I read the resistance the other day it read .249. Also the solenoid did not have a diode across The solenoid small terminals. I did not read the ITS. What do I need to check next. I bought a new solenoid and should be here next week. Is there a way I can bypass the ITS, and solenoid to make sure the controller works. By the way, took the cover off the old controller and found a burnt diode. Thanks for any help, to a first time cart owner.

[radioman]

You need to be careful bypassing things. Also you need to put the run/tow switch in tow when unplugging controller. Since solenoid is not energizing check for Battery voltage on the small solenoid terminal with the yellow wire with everything set to go. If you got voltage there proceed to next step. Depress the pedal and see if you get voltage on pin 5 green wire of the controller. The other side of the solenoid gets a negative from the controller.

I am not sure why the resistor is getting hot. That is a 250 ohm 10 watt resistor. If it is getting hot without solenoid energizing something else is wrong something drawing current not supposed to. It purpose is to pre-charge the controller to prevent arcing when the solenoid contacts close. Possibly something shorted in motor or controller. This is not a good sign. You need to find out what is drawing the current before you install new solenoid. The big solenoid terminals should normally have voltage on both.

You got the diagram right?

Lets do step 1 first.

No. You cannot bypass everything to see if the controller works. It is in the test fixture now.

[jaybass73]

Thanks, I will check voltage at the small terminals. Will I be checking voltage at pin 5 while connected to the controller?

[radioman]

Originally Posted by jaybass73

Thanks, I will check voltage at the small terminals. Will I be checking voltage at pin 5 while connected to the controller?

Yes. All measurements made from B-. The solenoid still may not energize. Also you need to measure the battery pack voltage just for reference.
When the controller gets all the voltages from the various points it will supply negative on the other side of the solenoid coil.

[scottyb]

Check the peddle box micro switch - most likely it is not working.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by jaybass73

Thanks, I will check voltage at the small terminals. Will I be checking voltage at pin 5 while connected to the controller?

I gave you information for a DCS system not a PDS. Disregard my instructions. Sorry about that. But the resistor should not be getting hot. The solenoid still has to get voltage on the yel solenoid wire and negative on the blue. The pin 5 measurement was applicable to a DCS system.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-diagrams.html

[jaybass73]

ScottyB, I checked the microswitch using continuity by pulling off the connector from the controller, hooked up my DVM to those pins at the connector and stepped on the accelerator and the made the connection. Is there a resistance I should be reading? I got my new controller installed last night and hooked it up with the old solenoid, no bueno. I still could not get the controller diagnostics to beep. Could a bad reverse beeper cause the controller to not respond? I received a new solenoid and new diode today, so I will hook that up when I get home from work today. Crossing my fingers.

[jaybass73]

Ok, Hooked up the new solenoid, not getting power across the small terminals, but with switch on I can read power across the large terminals without hitting the pedal. Still no go.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by jaybass73

ScottyB, I checked the microswitch using continuity by pulling off the connector from the controller, hooked up my DVM to those pins at the connector and stepped on the accelerator and the made the connection. Is there a resistance I should be reading? I got my new controller installed last night and hooked it up with the old solenoid, no bueno. I still could not get the controller diagnostics to beep. Could a bad reverse beeper cause the controller to not respond? I received a new solenoid and new diode today, so I will hook that up when I get home from work today. Crossing my fingers.

A micro switch should read open (infinite resistance) or closed (nearly zero resistance) and should be repeatable - reliable. They are cheap, but should be determined to be bad. VW mechanics - replace everything 'til it works - is expensive. Take the time to trouble-shoot before replacing random parts.

[scottyb]

The trouble still seems to be in the solenoid activation circuit.
Check to see if you have 36v across the small solenoid terminals when the gas is pressed. If not, determine if you are missing the + or the - side.