RXV Brake Issue

[konakid]

I have started reading all the topics on RXV brakes, but hoping someone can give me a place to start with this problem - because I'm confused.

It's a used 2010 RXV from a dealer. I know a little about carts (fixed two after reading this forum) so I checked this out pretty good. I was perfect - in very good shape - and I was paying special attention to the auto brake situation.

Used it without a about a month with not a hint of a problem, then parked it for about a month (charging once a week). Then the wife got in it and drives a couple 100 yds, and says it is going slow. I get there and smell electical/brake smell.

Seems like the parking brake is stuck on. When I turn key it sounds to me as if it releases then immediately goes back on - but I can't remember the sounds that well - so I could be wrong.

Not sure where to start, since it is (was) in pristine shape and working well. I'm hoping there might be something I can do to get it to release, and that it is just momentarily stuck since it sat for a while.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

If you are still with me - some other info:
- cart reluctantly moves both forward and back, but stops abruptly after taking foot off "gas" - as if the brake is already on, but the engine is stronger.
- reverse buzzer comes on

I'll read some more, but this sounds like it is the nightmare I was dreading.

[konakid]

Trying to get up to speed on this issue. When doing so, found out this may be a vital piece of information.

When in neutral and in tow - cart will not move. So, is that a "for-sure" sign that it is the engine/auto brake?

And is there any chance that it is just stuck, and that removing it and cleaning/lubricating it might fix it? Or can these things just break all of a sudden after not using the cart for awhile?

It sounds as if it never released for the wife after parking it for almost a month - but worked great up until then.

[cgtech]

1- is plug under cupholder area (red & green loops) good? if the plug is gone, brake will never unlock.
2- is it a brake with a lever?

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

1- is plug under cupholder area (red & green loops) good? if the plug is gone, brake will never unlock.
2- is it a brake with a lever?

Thanks - I'll check the plug situation.

However, I already went and ordered a new brake. The old one smelled pretty bad. The wife apparently ran it for a while with it on. So even if it is something else, I figured I needed it.

And I don't think there is a brake lever anywhere. Is it a lever in the cab, or elsewhere?

[cgtech]

the early motor brake had a lever on the side of the brake itself as a release mechanism in the event of no power (an rxv with no batteries in it does not just roll around where you might want to put it). the lever system is sometimes known to jam-up and prevent normal unlocking when power is applied.

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

the early motor brake had a lever on the side of the brake itself as a release mechanism in the event of no power (an rxv with no batteries in it does not just roll around where you might want to put it). the lever system is sometimes known to jam-up and prevent normal unlocking when power is applied.

Thanks "cg" - I removed the old brake, and there was no lever. What I was curious about is - should I have been able to rotate anything in the old brake after I removed it? I guess I will be able to answer that when I get the new one.

But i wasn't quite sure how it worked and where the actual brake pad friction occurred - it looks like it is inside the brake itself. And I'm guessing if no "juice" to the brake, no release - correct?

Another question please. I have no torque wrench. How important is the torque settings on the new brake that I saw in a YouTube video on replacing the brake???

[cgtech]

no power, no release. the torque is quite important, but you can just tighten the bolts "just until the lock washers are fully tightened, & bolt stops". be very careful to NOT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts, thats the main thing. overtightened bolts can destroy the brake in only a few hundred feet of driving.

[konakid]

Originally Posted by cgtech

no power, no release. the torque is quite important, but you can just tighten the bolts "just until the lock washers are fully tightened, & bolt stops". be very careful to NOT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts, thats the main thing. overtightened bolts can destroy the brake in only a few hundred feet of driving.

CG - Thank you very very much for the info. Hopefully the new brake will install easily and that fixes the problem. If not, I'll be back. :)

[gornoman]

You may want to wire-wheel the three bolts that attach the brake to the motor before you try to install them. They get carbon or something on the threads which can lead to frustration during installation.

[HiTechRedNeck]

Also wire wheel motor end and lug --- rust and build up causes problems over time.

If motor lug is rusty- brake can stick and not release fully.