curtis pmd troubleshoot help

[shadowman]

rabbit i think your right i don,t know how much time i would spend on it with that controller in it......isn,t there a way you take a jumper from b- to m- on controller and if cart runs full blast controller is bad?......i havn,t did it in some years but i know there a way to jump that controller for testing purposes.......i think thats where i would concentrate............................

[bacord]

Witch micro on the F/R switch that comes from key? Their is 2 micros on the F/R switch. The wire from the pot box goes to what post on solinoid?? Does all the wireing you suggest just do the pos wire if so does't the sol need a - on a small post to activate the coil to close the switch for the big wire? Thanks again.

[bacord]

Thanks Shadow man and Rabbit!!! Any more sugestions on trouble shooting or a good wire dia??

[rabbitreborn]

Originally Posted by shadowman

rabbit i think your right i don,t know how much time i would spend on it with that controller in it......isn,t there a way you take a jumper from b- to m- on controller and if cart runs full blast controller is bad?......i havn,t did it in some years but i know there a way to jump that controller for testing purposes.......i think thats where i would concentrate............................

the problem at the moment is that the cart isn't getting power through the solenoid so first we have to figure that part out, but yes, you are correct about jumping B- and M- once he has appropriate power to the controller.

[rabbitreborn]

Originally Posted by bacord

Witch micro on the F/R switch that comes from key? Their is 2 micros on the F/R switch. The wire from the pot box goes to what post on solinoid?? Does all the wireing you suggest just do the pos wire if so does't the sol need a - on a small post to activate the coil to close the switch for the big wire? Thanks again.

re-read what I posted. follow the wires and check for power at each point.

Clip your ground probe to the main battery negative (usually the front inside battery on the Passenger side). Test for voltage on the pack (I believe you said 38 volts).
Test at the keyswitch. 38 volts on each side? If so, follow the wire to the micro on the F&R.
Cart in Neutral, test each side of that micro, 1 side should have power, the other side should not. Place in forward and both sides should now have 38 volts. Follow the wire to the Pot Box Micro, Key on, Cart in forward still, you should have power to one post on the pot box micro and none on the other. Press the accelerator pedal and you should now have 38 volts on both sides of the micro. Follow the wire to the small post of the solenoid.
Key on, Cart in Gear, Pedal depressed, you should have 38 volts to the small post of the solenoid. Is this what you have? If not, at what point did you lose the full 38 volts?

As for the ground, as I said, you will have to trace it from the solenoid back to wherever it originates, but it is usually on the B- of the controller.

[bacord]

I followed the wire to key switch, the key is good. From the key to the micro on the F/R switch that micro was bad so I put the 2 wires for the micro under 1 screw so I think that should bypass micro. I followed the wire from the F/R micro to the pot box micro and that micro was bad too so I put both wires to 1 screw to bypass. I forgot to turn off the key and when I tryed to hook the batterys up again it was a dead short. Any ideals???

[bacord]

I pulled out the controller and it does not have any cracks and looks ok. How do you troubleshoot a curtis PMC 1204-017 controller.

[rabbitreborn]

Well first, you put it back in the cart lmao.... then you have to make sure the 38 volts from the battery pack is actually getting to it (which at the moment it isn't).

When you say dead short, you do realize that you will get a spark when connecting the wires in the manner you said you did right? Did the solenoid click at all? If not, try removing the ground wire from the small post, and connect a ground wire from the battery pack directly to the solenoid small post. We really can't diagnose the controller (or anything else), until you get that solenoid working (in your case it will be working off the keyswitch until you can replace those bad micro's but that's ok for purposes of testing).

btw, the new pic of the controller looks alot better.... that first pic you posted had me concerned of a possible opening in the sealant.

[bacord]

I rerhooked up all wires with the key off. When I turned the key on the sol clicked but then the black jumper between the 2 small post caught fire!! Earler today I found 2 bad micro (checked 2 ways, 1 with batterys disconnected with ohm meter, then with batterys connected and checked for voltage) one on F/R switch and the other micro on pot box and just connected the 2 wires at each micro togather. What should I try next? Is the 2nd micro in F/R switch for a back up buzzer? I think It's wired wrong. All the controll wires seem to be right tho. If some one can tell me where the 4 wires from motor a1 a2 f1 f2 go to also where does the 4 4ga wires on F/R switch go. Thanks again rabbit, where is your shop located????

[rabbitreborn]

your motor says A1,A2,F1,F2???? I really hope not.

You can remove that Diode between the 2 small posts but at this point I am concerned that the solenoid (enev though it is new) might get damaged. It's a good probability that the controller is bad and is causing a back up in power to the solenoid. If that motor has posts with F1 and F2 on it, it is the wrong motor for the cart and could have caused all this damage to occur.

My shop is in Eustis Florida, unfortunately it's a pretty fair distance from Bradenton..... better part of 2 hours at least.

Yes, the second Micro on the F&R is for the reverse buzzer and shouldn't effect the running of the cart.