power from a curtis control box

[bigwheel]

working on a freedom se pds on dash fnr and reviewing scottyb's schematic showing the power conductors of each curcuit and looking looking at the contrller J1 connector pin 4 ,which is the 36v wire from the reed switch. If that conductor to the controller(curtis 73326 G05) pin is 36v live, wouldn't pins 1 and 9 at least be active (fnr switch and key switch circuit)? Aren't those primary circuits always active to be ready first for use?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bigwheel

working on a freedom se pds on dash fnr and reviewing scottyb's schematic showing the power conductors of each curcuit and looking looking at the contrller J1 connector pin 4 ,which is the 36v wire from the reed switch. If that conductor to the controller(curtis 73326 G05) pin is 36v live, wouldn't pins 1 and 9 at least be active (fnr switch and key switch circuit)? Aren't those primary circuits always active to be ready first for use?

I answered in your other thread, but here it is anyway.

No. Unless J3 Pin-1 is shorted to J3 Pin2 and J3 Pin-3 is shorted to J3 Pin-4 (IE: Run/Tow switch is connected and in "RUN" position) the controller's logic power and auxiliary power are shut off.

Unlike other carts, with a PDS the various switches and interlocks are effectively in parallel instead of series. Each is more or less a stand alone circuit.

Think of it as a five input AND Gate.
1. Reed Switch
2. Direction Switch (This is an "OR" input - Either "F" or "R")
3. Pedal Switch
4. Run/Tow Switch
5. Key Switch
All have to be "TRUE" before Controller will activate Solenoid.

IF any one of the five is "False", the solenoid is not energized.

[bigwheel]

Hi JohnnieB what making this difficult is the pathway inside the box. The stand alone cicuits are easy to test with a good circuit schematic and an understanding of what goes inside box must come out. Im usually decent at this kinda thing, but wonder if ive lost my marbles somewhere along the way as this has taken longer than expected. Maybe a reversal of thought like tracing the live 36v conductors out of the box might reveal the issue. What ever is going on is affecting selonoid yellow wire,key switch,and foward and reverse sw. I think i will also verify any voltages across 1&2 and 3&4 on the tow/run switch probing the connectors backside while its plugged in. I believe its ok as it is not used often.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bigwheel

Hi JohnnieB what making this difficult is the pathway inside the box. The stand alone cicuits are easy to test with a good circuit schematic and an understanding of what goes inside box must come out. Im usually decent at this kinda thing, but wonder if ive lost my marbles somewhere along the way as this has taken longer than expected. Maybe a reversal of thought like tracing the live 36v conductors out of the box might reveal the issue. What ever is going on is affecting selonoid yellow wire,key switch,and foward and reverse sw. I think i will also verify any voltages across 1&2 and 3&4 on the tow/run switch probing the connectors backside while its plugged in. I believe its ok as it is not used often.

Unfortunately the 1206xx controllers (1206SX=DCS 1206MX=PDS) are custom made by Curtis for E-Z-GO, so E-Z-GO is Curtis's customer and while Curtis must provide information to E-Z-GO, Curtis isn't legally required to provide any information about what goes on inside the box to anyone E-Z-GO subsequently sells it to. Since E-Z-GO did not manufacturer the controller, they aren't legally bound to provide information about what goes on inside it to the end user. Basically a Catch-22. Fortunately, Curtis didn't completely "Reinvent the wheel" for E-Z-GO when they designed the 1206 line of controllers, or at least I suspect they retained all they could of the 1204/5 series controller and only added/changed what was absolutely necessary.

The armature portion of the high current motor speed control and the ITS circuits are probably very similar to the ones shown in the 1204/5 manual that is available on the Curtis website. What is a mystery, except for a selected few, is how exactly the the KSI circuit is connected inside a 1206MX controller. (The 1206SX used an analog KSI circuit that was external to the controller)

My guess is that J1 Pin-6 is tied to B- and J1 Pin-7 is tied to B+ via a SSR (Solid State Relay) and the Aux, Power portion of the Run/Tow Switch. And the SSR controlling the Solenoid is controlled by a logic circuit. When all the switches mentioned in my previous post are closed, the 1206MX controller is being told to energize the coil of the solenoid. If it doesn't, either the 1206MX controller or the Solenoid is defective.

From a purely troubleshooting stand point, there are only three possibilities:
1. The Controller is not being told to energize the Solenoid. (One or more of the five switch circuits is bad)
2. The Controller is being told to energize the Solenoid and isn't. (Bad Controller)
3. The Solenoid is being told to activate, but isn't. (Bad Solenoid)

Hope this helps.
John

PS - I taught Logical Troubleshooting in the USAF BMET School

[bigwheel]

Hello John, your technical knowledge is appreciated. Refering to your 123 senario, I would have to say#1 since #2 was the original choice that was replaced and #3 replaced due to being a mechanical wear and tear product. we can never be complacent about new and rebuilt without testing, a lesson learned before. looking at the J1 connector pins, I get the feeling 1 thru 5 has to be activated before 6thru 10. If that be the case, then the current to the foward and reverse switch circuit might be the missing link. I dont think I remember current at J1#1 pin or#2 reverse and #3 foward. Pins 4 & 5 are live because they come directly from the battery sources. six thru ten are dead. Another issue that seems strange to me is micro pedal switch. measuring the voltage on both sides of the switch opened or closed results in 36 volts. maybe thats normal for the application but seems wrong to me.

Alex