G.E. electric motor help

[GunGuy]

I have a G.E. electric motor # 5BC48JB882 off of my Hyundai POS cart but according to Vintage description it fits several carts "19 Spline, 2 HP, 2800 RPM, 36 Volt Fleet Speed Replacement Motor for 1988 and newer E-Z-GO non DCS and PDS, also 1995 to 2002 Yamaha G14 and G16, 1986 and newer Melex models 412E, 512E, 625E and newer models with Dana differential, also Hyundai with 19 spline Dana differential."
My question is do any of you guys know what the resistance specs should be for this motor? I did a bench test on the motor and the amp draw was way too high and the motor speed was next to nothing, I could watch it go around. I completely disabled the motor cleaned and inspected for shorts and friction contact. I put it back together and got the same results on another bench test. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

[JohnnieB]

I don't know what the ohmic values should be, but it isn't much since the field (Stator) windings are only about 20 turns of fairly heavy gauge wire or ribbon.

However. I'm pretty sure you'll destroy that motor if you keep running it without being properly mounted.

Only when installed is the front shaft is supported by the bearing on the input shaft of the differential. Just setting on the bench, the front of the armature flops all over the place and nay bind against a stator shoe until something smokes.

[pete959]

just put on cart and try it what can it hurt

[GunGuy]

Well lesson learned I shouldn't have listened to my retarded friend. I was testing it the wrong way, I put the motor back on and tested it the proper way. The motor works, now I just have to track it down to a bad controller or a F/R switch. I am really starting to hate this Hyundai.

[JohnnieB]

I know nothing about Hyundai carts, but a generic check would be to measure between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.

You should get full pack voltage when the pedal is pushed just far enough for the solenoid to click.
If you don't, there is something amiss in the high current loop, and the F/R switch is a likely suspect in a series cart.

If you do get the full pack voltage, press the pedal slowly to floor.
The voltage should smoothly decrease to about zero.
If not, either the throttle input to the controller, or the controller itself is bad.

[GunGuy]

I finely got the chance do a little testing and it looks like I have a bad plug diode in my controller. The controller bench tested ok with the three lights but it will not work on the cart. Have any of you guys repaired your controllers?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by GunGuy

I finely got the chance do a little testing and it looks like I have a bad plug diode in my controller. The controller bench tested ok with the three lights but it will not work on the cart. Have any of you guys repaired your controllers?

What controller do you have? One with three lights doesn't ring any bells.
A picture of it would be nice.

Some guys have tried to work on their controllers, but I don't know how successful they've been. Maybe one will chime in.

Plug braking isn't typically used in a golf cart application, so you might get it to work in the cart by leaving the A2 terminal on the controller disconnected.

If the A2 terminal is used for a junction point like it is in some EZGO carts, just bolt the two cables together.

[GunGuy]

I have a Curtis 1204-027 controller, I was referring to the bench test procedure on page 32 of the Curtis 1204-5 manual for the three lights since it is a 36V cart. I don't have a set of batteries for this cart yet so I have to drive 26 miles one way and remove the batteries from my Cushman, bring them home where this cart is to do any testing, quite the PIA. That's why I am doing so much bench testing out of the cart. I don't enjoy doing things the hard way it just looks that way.

[JohnnieB]

You can use two or three 12V car batteries for testing.
Or just about any other 24 to 36 volt DC power source, the light bulbs don't draw nearly as many amps as a motor would.

I believe the case on a 1204 is sealed, but I don't think the boards are encapsulated like they are on some controllers. (Like the DCX400 I smoked a few weeks ago. )

FSIP (One of BGW's site sponsors) rebuilds Curtis controllers, give them a call, they might provide some technical assistance.
http://www.fsip.biz/NewGolfCurtis.html

[GunGuy]

I took the controller apart and ohm tested every resistor, transducer and diode in the stupid thing. All of them checked ok including the plug diodes. The bench test of the controller shows that it works in a low amperage use condition. As soon as I hook it up to the cart it all goes to crap. If I hook my DMM to B- and M- I get full pack voltage at slight pedal input, but as soon as I push the pedal down the voltage dropped to 0.6V then a gradual drop to 0.0V at WOT. It just doesn't add up, I even went so far as to remove the carts throttle pot from the controller and tied in a variable 0-5K ohm resistor with the same results.