Welded on cart, now it won't go

[somfas]

I disconnected the positive cable to the battery pack. I welded around the (coil?) part that the throttle pedal goes into. I didn't read here first and I didn't disconnect the negative cable nor did I weld real close to my ground. What are some things to check to see if they are good or been fried? The controller has a green Led indicating it is still good. The solenoid clicks in both forward and reverse. Thanks for you help!

[somfas]

I've seen JohnnieB's post and have checked voltage at the controller. Its full voltage before the solenoid kicks on, then it drops once it kicks on. Its a late 90's TXT with all new heavy duty non-stock stuff in it.

[somfas]

Also, it does not beep when put in reverse. It has a switch on the dash for FNR. It used to have a lever. I'm not sure if it is still a series with a switch, or if it has been completely converted to PDS. Thanks

[JohnnieB]

What controller do you have? If it is a DCX its a sepex drive (DCS or PDS).

Sounds like it is a DCS and the F/R selector was converted to a PDS type rocker switch on the dash.

Having the voltage at the controller go away when the solenoid closes isn't right, but it might be a matter of where you are measuring from and to.

Disconnect the resistor connected between the two large terminal on the solenoid.
Connect your DVM test leads to the B+ and B- terminals on the controller.
You should get zero volts before the solenoid clicks and full pack voltage after it clicks.

If that is okay, move the positive DVN test lead from the B+ terminal to the M- terminal.
Lift rear wheels off ground and put on jackstands for safety.
Push the pedal just far enough for the solenoid to click. You should read full pack voltage.
If so, push pedal slowly to floor and voltage should decrease smoothly to zero.

If not, connect your DVM test leads between Pins 1 & 2 in the 10 pin plug on top of the controller.
Should read 10V when solenoid first clicks and 6V when pedal is on floor.

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The ITS senor in the pedal box your were welding close to is full of electronics, so it might have gotten zapped.

Same with beeper.

Also, the Green LED on the controller coming on, doesn't mean it is good.
I have a DCX400 that the Green LED comes on, after I saw sparks and smoke coming out of it.

[somfas]

Its an Alltrax AXE controller. The cart was converted to 72V. I got full pack voltage from B+ to B- before the solenoid clicked and a steady drain after it clicked (pressing the pedal). Then I got 67V between pins 1 and 2 before touching the pedal, and 0V after pushing it to the floor.

[JohnnieB]

Something isn't adding up right.

When yous said the F/R switch was on the dash, I figured it was a Sepex drive system (DCS or PDS), but if there is an Alltrax AXE controller in it, it is a series drive.

Possibly it has a reversing contactor with a dash mounted switch.

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Anyway, if it is an AXE controller, there should either be 4 push-on connectors on top, or a 6-pin molex plug with only 4 pins used.

The throttle is pins 1 & 2 on the molex plug type, but on the version with four separate push-on connectors, the throttle input is pins 2 & 3.
In either case, it is the black and the white wires.

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Oops! I screwed up about where to put the DVM test leads to check if the solenoid contacts are closing or not.
Connect the DVM between the main negative terminal on the battery pack and the B+ on the controller.

That is where the voltage should go to full pack voltage when the solenoid closes.

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The voltage between B- and B+ terminals on the controller should start at zero when the solenoid first clicks and increase to pack voltage as the pedal is pushed.

Conversely, the voltage between B- and M- should start at full pack voltage when the solenoid first clicks and decrease to zero as pedal is pushed.

[somfas]

Thank you so much for your help. I bought the cart from a guy on this forum, he is an electrical genius so all of the work is very professional. I had lost his contact info until this morning I found his number and sent a text. Hopefully I will hear back from him. In the meantime, I am trying to sort out what piece may have been damaged. Based on your tests above: Pins 2 and 3 (4 pin white and black wires) show 9.6V sitting and 0.4V with pedal to floor. The neg batt and B+ still shows 77V until I press the pedal and then it begins to decrease. B- and B+ do the same. I greatly appreciate the help and tests. Please let me know if these helped to narrow down anything.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by somfas

Its an Alltrax AXE controller. The cart was converted to 72V. I got full pack voltage from B+ to B- before the solenoid clicked and a steady drain after it clicked (pressing the pedal). Then I got 67V between pins 1 and 2 before touching the pedal, and 0V after pushing it to the floor.

If you had pack voltage between B- and B+ and steadily lost it after the pedal was pressed I would suspect the contacts in the solenoid. The reason for the pack voltage is the resistor across the large terminals of the solenoid, and once the solenoid engages and the contacts are bad the resistor can't supply the amps needed so the volts steadily drop until gone.
Take the resistor off of the big terminals and check the continuity after the solenoid engages.

[sportcoupe]

JohnnieB,

His cart is a series with reversing contactor with a PDS f&r switch on the key plate. Attached is the wire diagram. Mark bought my red 72v txt from me this summer. What he failed to mention is why he was welding on the cart. He converted it to a limo cart so it was cut in half to add a new front seat pod. The key switch, f&r switch, voltmeter and all throttle wiring had to be extended I would think. I would start by looking there if I was him.

The solenoid he is hearing on both forward and reverse is probably the reversing contactor and not the main contactor.

The diagram shows a potbox but it is just the stock ITS throttle. There also are no fuses as shown in the diagram.

[somfas]

Thanks, I will check the solenoid click again. I didn't have to extend the throttle wires so I assume they are fine (now assuming that welding did not damage anything and that it was a misconnected wire). That area was cut on and welded and the push rod was twisted around some so there could be damage there I suppose. I labeled each wire before they were cut and spliced, however I intend to trace them to confirm correct continuity. Most of those wires are radio, horn, turn signals etc. So if some wires were messed up, it should only be from the FnR switch. The key switch is working. Im afraid its not the wires though, as they were labelled. Mistakes happen though and I will check and hope thats what it is. Thanks again for your help.