replaced controller still no go.

[JohnnieB]

FWIW: Getting the solenoid to click on a PDS is a two step process. You have to arm it (B+ on yellow wire) and then fire it (B- on blue wire).

Arming:
J1-Pin-5: Connects to battery side large terminal on solenoid, so has B+ 100% of the time.
J1 Pin-4: Connects to Reed switch, so has B+ when charger plug is not inserted into charge receptacle, or 100% of the time if Reed switch is bypassed.

B+ from these two pins fed J3 Pins 1 & 3 (Run/Tow switch).
When Run/Tow switch is in Run, B+ is coupled to J3 Pins 2 & 4 and back into controller, powering up the internal electronics and forwarding B+ to to the key switch, F/R switch and pedal switch.

Turning key ON, coupling the B+ now present on J1 Pin-9 to J1 Pin-8
Selecting a direction on the F/R switch will couple the B+ now on J1 Pin-1 to either J1 Pin-3 (Forward) or J1 Pin-2 (Reverse)

When all of the above conditions are met, the controller will then apply B+ to J1 Pin-6 (yellow wire), arming the solenoid.

Firing:
When pedal is pushed, the pedal switch couples the B+ on J4 Pin-2 to J4 Pin-1, which tells the controller to apply B- to J1 Pin-7 (blue wire) to energize the solenoid.

------------
When a good solenoid is attached to a PDS controller and is armed, you will read B+ on following:

J1 Pins 1, 2 or 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 and 4
J4 Pin-2

When pedal switch closes:
J4 Pin-1 will now have B+ applied to it and the B+ on J1 Pin-6 will go to zero (B-) firing the solenoid.

---------------
None of the following need be attached to controller for solenoid to click:
1. Motor
2. Beeper
3. Speed sensor (J5)
4. PDS mode plug (J2)

[sonnysmith]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

FWIW: Getting the solenoid to click on a PDS is a two step process. You have to arm it (B+ on yellow wire) and then fire it (B- on blue wire).

Arming:
J1-Pin-5: Connects to battery side large terminal on solenoid, so has B+ 100% of the time.
J1 Pin-4: Connects to Reed switch, so has B+ when charger plug is not inserted into charge receptacle, or 100% of the time if Reed switch is bypassed.

B+ from these two pins fed J3 Pins 1 & 3 (Run/Tow switch).
When Run/Tow switch is in Run, B+ is coupled to J3 Pins 2 & 4 and back into controller, powering up the internal electronics and forwarding B+ to to the key switch, F/R switch and pedal switch.

Turning key ON, coupling the B+ now present on J1 Pin-9 to J1 Pin-8
Selecting a direction on the F/R switch will couple the B+ now on J1 Pin-1 to either J1 Pin-3 (Forward) or J1 Pin-2 (Reverse)

When all of the above conditions are met, the controller will then apply B+ to J1 Pin-6 (yellow wire), arming the solenoid.

Firing:
When pedal is pushed, the pedal switch couples the B+ on J4 Pin-2 to J4 Pin-1, which tells the controller to apply B- to J1 Pin-7 (blue wire) to energize the solenoid.

------------
When a good solenoid is attached to a PDS controller and is armed, you will read B+ on following:

J1 Pins 1, 2 or 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 and 4
J4 Pin-2

When pedal switch closes:
J4 Pin-1 will now have B+ applied to it and the B+ on J1 Pin-6 will go to zero (B-) firing the solenoid.

---------------
None of the following need be attached to controller for solenoid to click:
1. Motor
2. Beeper
3. Speed sensor (J5)
4. PDS mode plug (J2)

Thanks for the info. Now, can I read the voltage and voltage drop without motor leads hooked to motor???? If so would they be the same???? and will the F1 and F2 be the lower voltage ????
Sorry but if I don't know I ask. If I ask too much, just tell me.

Sonny

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sonnysmith

Thanks for the info. Now, can I read the voltage and voltage drop without motor leads hooked to motor???? If so would they be the same???? and will the F1 and F2 be the lower voltage ????
Sorry but if I don't know I ask. If I ask too much, just tell me.

Sonny

The info was just for getting the solenoid to click.

You'll have to have a good motor (or test load) connected to the controller to check its output.

The volts measured between A1 & A2 will vary from Zero when the solenoid first click to nearly full pack voltage with pedal on floor. (Note: this is for a PDS controller, or other sepex controller)

The volts measured between F1 & F2 will vary from Zero when the solenoid first click to 2.7V +/- 0.5V with pedal on floor. (Note: this is for a stock PDS controller only - other sepex voltages will have different field voltages)

-------------

Most questions are ones that many people have, so ask away.

[pete959]

check ur reed wire connections will ur reverse buzzer sound at all

[cfstokes55]

Place Run/Tow in Tow.
Remove Blue wire from solenoid terminal.
Connect jumper wire from solenoid terminal that Blue wire was on to the main main negative terminal on battery pack.
Place Run/Tow back into Run.

Solenoid should now click when key is on and either F or R is selected on F/R switch.

If so, push throttle pedal and wheels should spin.

I have done this like jonnie said and this is what I cam up with. I can jump the solenoid and press the pedal but I have no wheel spin. hooked the blue wire back up to the solenoid and pressed the pedal and nothing. now for some reason I started messing with the key switch while pressing the peddle and the solenoid click and dropped out did this several times, now it starts to get a little confusing here, thinking and hoping I was on to something here, even though I was getting the battery pack voltage to the switch and then from the switch and back to the box and to the pedal box and back to the control box I was hoping that maybe some how the connection there where still a problem. so I eliminated the key switch and wired the two together so I would have a constant contact I push the pedal and the solenoid engaged again. I pushed the pedal all the way to make the wheel turn and the solenoid then dropped out and has not worked at all since I did this.

i am going to pick up the cart from the golf course today and bring it back to check it out while i have it next to mine and go over every this just to see if i can find any thing different between the two.

any ideas on what else to try or what else i can look for would be great.

guys I really do appreciate all the reply's and help with this so far, i guess the positive in all this is hopefully we are learning something new as we do this.

[cfstokes55]

and sorry Pete yes the reverse buzzer will sound when i put it in reverse.

[JohnnieB]

Personally, I suspect a bad connection at J1 Pin-6 is the problem, or at least one of them.

Your controller worked in a different cart and the controller from that cart would not work in your cart, so the problem is in your cart switches and/or wiring.

If you are getting proper voltage on all the places I mentioned, but the solenoid is not clicking, that eliminates everything except the connection between the male pin in the plug and the female pin in the controller receptacle at J1 Pin-6.

[Jkry2121]

No click from the Solenoid? Sounds like the Solenoids no good. Theres also a microswitch in the pedal box that engages it but its the same as pressing the accelerator (those can go bad which is rare you can see if its bad by bypassing it with a piece of wire stripped on both ends but jack the cart up first and be safe.)

[cfstokes55]

ok so after many hours and days of starring at the cart and playing around I went ahead and replaced ever small wire that is on the cart (every wire coming out and into the control box). after doing this I now can get the solenoid to click every time the pedal is pressed, but i still have no go. when pressing the pedal and the solenoid engaged i am reading the A1 and B- on controller and when first pressed it has a voltage of 37 volts as the pedal is continued to be pressed the voltage drops until it reach around 26-28 volts then the voltage goes back up to 37 and when pressed any further the solenoid drops out. solved one of the two problems. any more ideas.

[JohnnieB]

Great, the solenoid is clicking when the pedal is pushed.

Is the 37V between A1 and B- when solenoid first clicks, full pack voltage?

If so, the batteries need to be charged, they are at 70% SoC and the plates are sulfating as we speak.

------------
Disregarding for the moment, the strange voltage readings and behavior when the pedal is pushed all the way down, you've got 37V between A1 and B- and it decreases when the pedal is pushed, so the motor should turn or something ought to get hot.

Have you checked the motor for desired and undesired continuity?

Also, check the F1&F2 cables for worn through insulation. (see attached)