About to go absolutely crazy!! no joke

[Sergio]

As far as the resistor on the Solenoid big post You can just disconnect it and measure it to make sure it is around 250Ω.

On the resistance through the high current cables you better make sure you understand your meter.

A 0.5Ω reading would be correct, 0.5kΩ would not.

If you have different ohm ranges on your meter, it should be set around 2kΩ setting (not mega-ohms).

Also make sure the cable is disconnected from M-.

[tlfinn]

oh wow thanks for helping me out...Im a teacher that has spent about 700 on new parts (with money I dont have) trying to get his kids riding again and they are upset with me right now so you helping me is TREMENDOUS!!

ok so I set the meter to 2k and it read "1. " but it gave me that reading on its own with the probes not even touching so I didnt see any change?

[tlfinn]

i have no continuity between the A1 and A2 post on my motor!! everything disconnected and im not getting a reading... I should be reading close to 0 shouldnt I?

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by tlfinn

i have no continuity between the A1 and A2 post on my motor!! everything disconnected and im not getting a reading... I should be reading close to 0 shouldnt I?

I was going to ask you to check the motor windings next

The "1." you got on your meter is how some meters display an overflow or over-range reading, so that indicates an open circuit.

Raise one of the rear wheels off the ground and slowly rotate it to see if you get any readings between the Motor A1 and A2 posts, that would indicate a bad or worn out Motor brush.

The resistance between A1 and A2 as well as in between S1 and S2 should be almost 0Ω.

[tlfinn]

nothing ( meaning no reading )..nothing between A1 and A2 with rear wheel spinning..

[Raystar57]

When Sergio comes back I think he will tell you you have a brush problem.
They could be completely worn out or just stuck in the brush guides.
Time for motor internal inspection and cleanup.
Are you up for it? It's not that hard.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Raystar57

When Sergio comes back I think he will tell you you have a brush problem.
They could be completely worn out or just stuck in the brush guides.
Time for motor internal inspection and cleanup.
Are you up for it? It's not that hard.

I agree, but make sure you have continuity (close to 0Ω) reading between S1 and S2 otherwise the motor is really toast.

Raystar57 had a recent post with some good internal pictures of the Motor so You know what is involved in the teardown.

[tlfinn]

I got continuity between S1 and S2 but nothing between A1 and A2..
If it will save me some money I'M UP FOR IT!

I sure do appreciate you guys taking the time to help me (and many other folks) out.

Yall got a good link to get me started?

[Sergio]

This is the thread I was thinking about, look at these posts so You know what it looks like inside the Motor:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1408291

You may want to consider it a good time to spend $225 and send the Motor to Plumquick to get a performance upgrade which will include repairing your existing motor.

https://www.plumquick.com/motors-and...es/the-bandit/

[Raystar57]

What kind of cart and what motor?
Is there a serial number on the cart?
A pic of the motor plate would be good if it has not worn off, just to know what you have.

As Sergio said you may just want to go with Plumquick.
Your going to spend almost half that for a new brush system.
The commutator may also be in bad shape in addition to the brushes.

If this old motor has not been serviced I am almost positive it needs brushes.