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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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10-15-2010, 02:25 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10
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New to golf carts
Well here is my "hello" post. I picked up an EZ-GO 36v golf cart a few days ago. I got a pretty good deal on it, $0.00 on sale. I know nothing about the cart but that it was sitting in the garage of a vacant bank owned house my bro-n-law was cleaning out. It's missing the wheels, batteries, and lower seat. Besides that it is a pretty clean cart.
I'm not sure what to do with it yet. I play golf, but not to often anymore. I probably will not have the money to dump into it for some time unless I just plan on fixing it up to sell it. First thing I have to do is test the parts that are there to make sure it only needs batteries to run. I'd REALLY like to lift it, put on some big tires, and do some other customizing. But depending on what it's worth I might just sell it as is if the price is right. Here is a pic after taking it off of the truck and pressure washing. My daughter (the motorhead) got in the way if the pressure washer). Has anyone fabricated their own lift? I've got a welder and more time then money. I posted on another thread about how to figure out what year and model it is. As far as I can tell it's a TXT, it has the F/R switch behind the right knee. |
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10-15-2010, 03:12 AM | #2 |
......................
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Lauderdale FL.
Posts: 16,416
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Re: New to golf carts
Welcome to BGW
you have a year 2000, read this and figure out which one it is?? Can you verify the year and tell us which one of the three drive systems you have? The last 2 numbers of the manufactures code is the year, located inside the passenger side glove box, the 2004 and newer ezgos dont have a serial number plate in the box, they have a serial number sticker under the rear access panel behind the seat, and then on the driverside frame rail below the floor board. DCS will have a F&R lever behind the driver's knee and a run/tow switch on the enviromental cover on the controller. The backside of the f&R looks round like a hockey puck. PDS carts will have a Tow/Run switch with toggle switch for F&R on the dash SERIES carts will have a shift lever like the dcs cart down by your legs, but it will NOT have a tow/run switch. Also the actual F&R switch is in the corner by the controller and there is linkage from it to the lever in the center |
10-16-2010, 04:20 AM | #3 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10
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Re: New to golf carts
Quote:
Thanks for the info. I think it's a Series as i somewhat recall seeing what looked like a long rod from behind the F/R switch going towards the passenger side. I'll have to check in the morning. So if it's a Series I should be able to check the motor by running 12v to it like I've read on other posts? Is there any way to check the other components before taking the battery expense plung? |
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10-16-2010, 07:23 AM | #4 |
friends call me Boke
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Smithfield, North Carolina
Posts: 7,772
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Re: New to golf carts
you don't want that thing, I'll give ya $25 for it.
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10-16-2010, 07:34 AM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10
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Re: New to golf carts
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10-16-2010, 07:48 AM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,757
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Re: New to golf carts
$1000 for shipping?? where you shipping it from?
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10-16-2010, 08:58 AM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10
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Re: New to golf carts
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10-19-2010, 12:32 AM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10
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Re: New to golf carts
Confirmed, it's a series. So this should work to check the motor?:
Remove (and label) all 4 wires currently attached to the motor Use 2 wsrenches per wire to do this so as not to damage the motor (I find a tappet wrench works best for the nut under the wire). Tape the wire ends for safety. connect a wire between the A2 and S2 posts of the motor. A short battery wire works best. Again, use 2 wrenches when installing this. using a 12 volt source (auto battery or use 2 of the batteries from within the cart itself hooked in series) attach 12 volt negative to the S1 post and 12 volt positive to the A1 post. Motor should rotate slowly If not, recheck connections. If still not turning, you have a bad motor. If motor is turning, triple check all the wiring between the batteries, solenoid, controller, F&R, and motor. |
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