86 club car rebuild

[RONNIEB]

I am new to this site and I am looking for some advise and help.
I have a 86 electric club car with original 36 volt system.

A buddy has given me a controller, motor, fr switch, and solenoid from
a latter model club car and I would like to know what else I would need
to convert my cart over to the newer system.

I would appreciate any guidance or help anyone could offer.

I have attach photos of the parts he gave me. Hope the attachment works.

[jdunmyer]

I did a similar conversion to my 1979 CC this past Fall. Go to the Curtis web site and download the manual for the 1204/1205 controller, it has a number of wiring diagrams/schematics. I yanked all the existing wiring from my cart, then replaced it by going per the Curtis diagrams.

If you can't read electrical schematics, you'll probably need some help, but they are pretty simple. Well, as far as electrical schematics go...

You will need an accelerator potentiometer and appropiate linkage.

[Scott H.]

Originally Posted by RONNIEB

I am new to this site and I am looking for some advise and help.
I have a 86 electric club car with original 36 volt system.

A buddy has given me a controller, motor, fr switch, and solenoid from
a latter model club car and I would like to know what else I would need
to convert my cart over to the newer system.

I would appreciate any guidance or help anyone could offer.

I have attach photos of the parts he gave me. Hope the attachment works.

The cart in this thread should look like yours since they're the same year.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...-club-car.html

I did the conversion to 48 Volts on mine using stock components from a junk cart I already had, but I left the stock 36 Volt motor in the cart. It doesn't hurt the motor and you don't have to wrestle that heavy motor off and on again.

First things first, you're going to need a throttle controller which you do not have in your pictures. Most 48 Volt Club Cars that I have personally seen have a V-Glide, but you can use an aftermarket controller if you want to. Just be prepared to see the price they're going for as it's not exactly cheap. You're also going to need a new set of batteries and a 48 Volt charger, and those are down right expensive for quality units so be prepared.

On to my next question, how are your wiring and general fabrication skills?

You will be removing most of the wiring and replacing it, along with making mounting points and brackets for your components.

Honestly if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't bother with the hassle of upgrading using stock parts and I had a complete running 48 Volt cart with a ruined frame to get my parts from.

ScottyB has a reasonably priced conversion kit that is easy to install. You'll have to talk to him about the details though.

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Scotty...rsion_Kit.html

On my next Electric Cart build, I'm going that route from the start and saving the headaches.

Either way you decide to go, feel free to ask me any question you have and I'll try my best to answer it if I can. We're rebuilding the same year carts and I've probably run into the problem already.

-Scott H.

[Scott H.]

Oh, one last thing.

Go here:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...odygasqg0.jpg/

Here:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...ntbodyha4.jpg/

And here:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...dytrimhu8.jpg/

Even though they are diagrams of a newer cart, it'll show you where the fasteners are on the body and dash so you can remove it for better access. The only thing I found different is the front bumper on our year carts only have the top two bolts holding it on.

I saved the images on my computer and printed them out so I could have them at the cart while working on it.

-Scott H.

[RONNIEB]

Thanks Scott H. and jdunmyer for the help.

I have a few more questions.

I noticed the controller was 36 and 48 volt.
I have new batteries and would like to keep part of my 36 volt system.

Would it be possible to use the controller along with a v-glide so I
could do away with all the solenoids and resister coils and use the
new F/R selector?

Scott H.---did your existing throttle linkage work with the v-glide?

[jdunmyer]

Ronnie,
I don't know about the V-Glide, I used an accelerometer assy. from a Cushman truck to operate the controller. As far as the 36/48 volt nomenclature, that's just the spec: the controller will work with either voltage.

You won't use the resistor coils, of course, that's what the Curtis controller is for. You can probably use the original F/R switch if you wish; I did at first, then changed to a solenoid F/R switcher from an old pallet truck. Had to use a resistor in series with the coils because it was rated at 24 volts instead of 36.

[Scott H.]

Originally Posted by RONNIEB

I noticed the controller was 36 and 48 volt.
I have new batteries and would like to keep part of my 36 volt system.

You can use the controller on either voltage system.

Originally Posted by RONNIEB

Would it be possible to use the controller along with a v-glide so I could do away with all the solenoids and resister coils and use the new F/R selector?

To go to a controller system, you'll be taking your cart down to this:

The solenoids, resistors, throttle switch box, and a good bit of the wiring will go into the parts pile, never to be put back onto your cart.

Originally Posted by RONNIEB

Scott H.---did your existing throttle linkage work with the v-glide?

Yes, all I did was remove the old switch box, cut off the part of the "L" bracket that is sticking up, drilled a couple of new holes to mount the V-Glide, and bolted the arm of the V-Glide to the linkage that was already on the cart.

One word of warning though, DO NOT LOSE THE NUT ON THE BALL CONNECTOR ON THE LINKAGE!

Mine decided to go onto a permanent vacation and finding a fine thread nut to fit correctly was a royal pain!

-Scott H.

[scottyb]

Hi Ronnie,
First let's look at what you got. The 225 amp Curtis 1204 is a 5k-zero throttle input. You will need a club car 48v Vglide for a 5k-0 potentiometer to communicate peddle position. Neither one of those are the best option. The forward and reverse switch shown is an old stock switch. The EMP motor is unknown to me, you do some research on the Internet and learn about it. The solenoid is as stock as the forward and reverse switch and not suitable for an upgraded motor.
It looks to me like the only usable thing you got is the motor, assuming it is in good condition.
Unless you are simply trying to resurrect a gutted cart. I think you would be better off with some different components.
At 225 amps the Curtis is small by todays standards... on 36v is enough to play golf on a gentle course but that's about it... You might want to watch the sale ads to find some better suited components... I hope this helps.

[RONNIEB]

Thanks guys for the help and input,just not sure if its worth it on this old cart to upgrade. My cart has gotten slower and has less power over the last few months.
I put new batteries in it less than a year ago. May need new cables or maybe the
motor is worn out not sure. Does the motor get weaker or do they run the same
until they go out?

[jdunmyer]

Ronnie,
You cannot guess as to why your cart runs slower than it used to, you must use a meter to check things out. It could be something as simple as a bad connection on a cable, a poor connection/makeup on the F/R switch, or yes, even a motor problem. You can either throw parts and money at it, or trouble-shoot thing thing, it's up to you.

And, as Scottyb says, it depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to upgrade it anyway, then have at it. If stock performance is sufficient for your needs, that's something else. Of course, if you're going the upgrade route, you need to be certain that any retained parts such as cables, F/R switch, motor, etc. are in good shape. Otherwise, it's like putting a turbocharger on a worn-out Pinto engine, you're going to be disappointed.