22-24 mph on street please

[sdc19982002]

Originally Posted by normo

Researched some posts and verified the following:
1. Don't drink (too much) and fix cart.
2. Solenoid does engage.
3. Controller status LED checks out as normal.
4. I switched F1 and F2 wires on controller and cart will now go forward
only in either F or R.
5. Still a continuous beep when F/R switch is flipped either way.
6. Anxiety level about this is very high.

I am hoping that the cart just thinks its in "reverse" and all I need to do is change the F/R switch. Here is a picture of my switch. Certainly doesn't look like one that has "Micro switches" that posts say you can adjust.

Suggestions?

I had the same problem with mine a few weeks ago and it was the controller. The harness is the first thing to check though...Alltrax was good about getting a new one right out ....

[normo]

Got new harness. Put on new harness. "Only reverse" problem, gone. Took to the street for speed test. Very excited. 2 mph, then 6 mph, then 12 mph, then 18 mph, then 18 mph, then 18 mph.........

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

As in no change after the upgrade of DCX400PDS controller, 200a HD solenoid, and 4ga cables.

Still looking for my 22 to 24 mph. This should've worked. What happened?

[720Deere]

Who programmed your controller? It sounds like the programming needs some massaging.

[normo]

I got from my stuff from ScottyB. Waiting to hear back from him as to next possible step. Oh wait, right now next step is another beer.

(Jeopardy music)

Ahhhhh.......waiting for feedback.

[normo]

Something is keeping the cart from getting its full speed.

[flharleycop]

Originally Posted by normo

Got new harness. Put on new harness. "Only reverse" problem, gone. Took to the street for speed test. Very excited. 2 mph, then 6 mph, then 12 mph, then 18 mph, then 18 mph, then 18 mph.........

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

As in no change after the upgrade of DCX400PDS controller, 200a HD solenoid, and 4ga cables.

Still looking for my 22 to 24 mph. This should've worked. What happened?

I was going to do the same thing, i get 18-19 the way mine sits now. Let me know if it is a setting or a waste of money.

[Jerj7907]

BUY an RXV and forget all the aftermarket S!@T. 2 years now of running all over town at 28mph and not 1 problem. Stopped by local cart dealer who I only do business with and found out my cart has over 10,000 miles. Holy cow and replaced 1 brake in 2 years. Life is much easier. AC system runs much cooler so don't have to worry about hopping up my stock TXT or whatever and burning up electronics with all the extra power and heat generated with DC power. My neighbor I talk about comparing my RXV and his TXT which he has upgraded motor and control approached me today and talked about selling his TXT and buying a RXV. He is close in speed on flats but hills I wait at the top for him needless to say.

[JohnnieB]

I'll stick with my PDS since I can fix it if it breaks.

Also, my cart's performance is not limited to whatever the accountants and lawyers at EZGO decided was cost effective and non-culpable.

Plus, the RXV service manual is basically useless for troubleshooting the drive system since it contains no schematic for the drive system and little, if any, technical information about it.

Of course, the RXV with its AC induction motor has its niche in the overall scheme of things, just like carts with series and sepex DC motors.

[Jerj7907]

Over 10,000 miles and never broken so nothing to fix. Plus no expensive upgrades to purchase. I have added every aftermarket thing I need on it as well. I know we all have our favorites. In my neighborhood which is a golf coarse I was the first with a lifter RXV. Now there are at least 4 and if my neighbor does trade he would make 5. I think for the average user an RXV is a great choice. Now clearly JohnnieB has great knowledge in electronics and I understand he can build a nice reliable custom unit. But for the average consumer I think people can waste a lot of money trying to get the power and speed that a stock RXV has.

[normo]

I apologize in advance that this will be long. Frustration breeds wordiness in me. If you've followed along you know I'm just trying to go 24 mph!

I found these posts on BGW (SccotyB and JohnnieB posts) and performed the tests. Here are the results. Some interesting numbers in the wrong place (that’s what it seems to me anyway). My findings in red.


ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - DCS


ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
JACK UP REAR WHEELS or otherwise secure the rear end up off of the ground.
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post.
Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage) 38.0v
Connect (+) probe to the battery side of the solenoid's large stud. 38.0v
The same voltage should be present. If not, inspect all solenoid and battery cables.
DISCONNECT battery bl(+) wire and unplug the "Run,Tow/Maintenance switch.
Perform a continuity test on wires 1 and 2, 3 and 4 TO THE CONTROLLER
Turn the key switch ON and place the gear selector in Forward.
Connect (-) probe of meter to Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will remain on the post for the rest of the testing procedures)
Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals). 38.0v
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. 38.0vIf the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty.
If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch -Forward direction - Accelerator pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

AT THE TEN PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector. 38.0vIf battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the Run-Tow/Maintenance Switch and the Ten Pin Connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 16 volts. 0.0v
If the voltage is below 14 volts, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. Above 16 volts, the controller MAY be faulty.
Separate the (6) six pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 or above 16 volts, the controller is faulty. 0.0v
RECONNECT the (6) six pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. 10.4v. Disconnected the pin connector and the volts jumped to 14.2v. Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated. 9.4v
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. Didn’t do this with the white wire having power to it already! The reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

Took this from a JohnnieB post. Again answers in red.

3. Connect DVM to B- and M- terminals on controller and monitor while driving. 38.0v at B- and M-.When cart misbehaves, verify you get FULL battery pack voltage when throttle pedal is pushed only far enough for solenoid to click.
If not, there is a problem in the high current loop. (High current cables, battery pack and motor)

If you do get FULL battery pack voltage, slowly press pedal to floor.
The voltage between B- and M- should smoothly decrease to zero. Voltage JUMPED all over the place from -55v to 65v and never came close to “smoothly decrease to zero”.
If not, either the ITS isn't telling the controller to pass amps to motor or the controller is being told to turn on and isn't.

Something ain't right.