Question on solder and crimped cables

[JaxPilot]

OK, I have read dozens of threads on this, and the merits and drawbacks and warnings on each method - solder, crimp, or, solder and crimp. And I certainly don't want to start a flame war or an argument! While I have the proper cable and terminals, and access to a high end hydraulic crimper, I have not actually made battery cables before.

So my questions are these:
1. If the hydraulic crimpers, done properly, "weld" the wire into a solid mass, how are you able to get solder down through that crimp?

2. Is there a step by step process that can be followed if I want to try and make the "best of the best" soldered and crimped cables? Obviously they won't compare to Scotty's, but I'd like to at least know I am attempting to follow the proper steps in sequence to have the highest chance of success.

Thanks!

[Sergio]

I have the proper cable and terminals, and access to a high end hydraulic crimper

Crimping alone will give You the best results.

You should have tinned closed-end lugs (heavy walled preferably)

Slide a 1 to 2 inch section of adhesive lined heat-shrink tube over the cable.

Measure how far the cable will go into the lug and carefully strip out the cable jacket.

Select the correct die for the job.

Crimp the cable according to the crimper specifications.

Slide the heat-shrink tube over the cable/lug and seal it.

[JaxPilot]

I have adhesive lined shrink tube, 2 gauge 5/16" stud heavy duty corrosion-resistant copper lugs. Offers 80% greater wall thicknesses than a standard lug for extra durability. UL Listed and CSA certified. Also a couple of 3/8" lugs for the new solenoid. And 25' of 2 AWG Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 VOLT EWCS Spec - Made in the USA.

[JohnnieB]

Trojan recommends soldered and crimped (Pg-2 from their 2012 White Paper attached), but doesn't say how to do it.

I suspect they are basing their recommendation on crimps made by something other than a high end hydraulic crimper like you have access to. If your crimps have a cross-section density as good or better than the one shown in the second attachment, little, if any, could be gained by soldering also, even if it was possible.

The dark areas in the copper shown in the second picture are air gaps, which could be filled with solder, but most people (myself included) will do more damage to the connection than any benefit realized if they tried wicking solder into it.

[slashpine]

This is just my opinion based on my experience as a shipwright and electrical connections in corrosive situations...

IMO..."tinning" the cable can help prevent corrosive moisture from penetrating the copper strands...soldering after crimping will also prevent penetration of moisture...

Again IMO...I like to tin cable back beyond the connector far enough to make a seal with dielectric grease and a short piece of heat shrink...with the heat shrink slightly overlapping both the original insulation and the tinned cable...in my experience using heat shrink without something to seal the strands from penetration will only promote corrosion...

BTW...the gas that escapes from the (vented) caps on the batteries is corrosive and will find its way into anything in the confined space under the seat when the batteries are charging...(that water has to be going somewhere!)...as a gas it can permeate microscopic gaps etc...thus a grease or spray on agent will offer the most protection IMO...

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Trojan recommends soldered and crimped (Pg-2 from their 2012 White Paper attached), but doesn't say how to do it.

I suspect they are basing their recommendation on crimps made by something other than a high end hydraulic crimper like you have access to. If your crimps have a cross-section density as good or better than the one shown in the second attachment, little, if any, could be gained by soldering also, even if it was possible.

The dark areas in the copper shown in the second picture are air gaps, which could be filled with solder, but most people (myself included) will do more damage to the connection than any benefit realized if they tried wicking solder into it.

I say "go with the NASA certified wire guy", that should probably be good enough for a golf cart.

[JaxPilot]

Thanks all, that makes sense, especially for a novice like myself. I guess I was wondering how and or why Scotty B built them soldered and crimped. Other than the fact he has expertise gained by thousands of them under his belt!

Off the wall question, is there any value in placing dielectric grease in the battery lug *before* crimping, to fill any air gaps that may be in the cable?

[Golferdave]

At the cart barn, some carts come in with 5 year old batteries needing replaced,
A few have nice clean , re-Usable cables. These guys clean & maintain their batteries well.
Most come in marginal with (3 or 4 year old batts) One end of the cable ok ,the other gnarley looking.
A few come with 2 or 3 yr cheap batts) , you have to pressure wash the battery tops
to find the cable connections . (Usually towed in & with missing lugs)

IMO
good sealed crimped #4 or larger cables , a clean snug connection then some battery terminal protector sprayed on
+
reasonable maintained, not overfilled batteries.
now & then Spray a solution of baking soda/water over the battery tops & rinse them off
Inspect for any trouble spots developing
Might be an important too

If I learned anything in the military, preventative maintenance is important.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by JaxPilot

Thanks all, that makes sense, especially for a novice like myself.

1. I guess I was wondering how and or why Scotty B built them soldered and crimped. Other than the fact he has expertise gained by thousands of them under his belt!

2. Off the wall question, is there any value in placing dielectric grease in the battery lug *before* crimping, to fill any air gaps that may be in the cable?

1. I bought my silver soldered 2Ga cables from Scotty before he was both soldering and crimping them, and thought they were as near perfect as I was going to find without spending more for the cables than I paid for my cart.

When(if) I go to 48V, I'll have to replace the cables within the battery pack and I'll find out if he managed to improve on them any.

2. Dielectric grease is an insulator, which is the opposite of what is needed to fill the air gaps. Using an electrical contact conductive grease such as Sanchem's NO-OX-ID A Special Grease might work.

http://www.sanchem.com/electrical-co...lubricant.html

I use it on battery terminals and other high current connections.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Golferdave

----------------
If I learned anything in the military, preventative maintenance is important.

Truer words have never been spoken!!!!!!