marathon upgrade, Cart wont run. Can someone please help

[Rudi]

Hello everybody. I haven't been on the site for a while but I an issue. I have recently upgraded my cart and installed a 7126 AMD motor, 1205 Cutis 500 amp controller, heavy duty solenoid, HD F/R switch and #4 cables. I purchased all this from Buggies unlimited. I wired everything the same as it was before based on the electrical drawing from the manual. After installation, the cart does not run. The tests I performed are as follows. I contacted the tech support at Buggies unlimited and they recomended the the following.

moving cable M- to A1 motor
B+ to 6 oclock F/R switch
F/R A cable to A2 motor
A2 was then with no connections
Result was no power to motor.

Then i performed the following tests from information I received off of your website

Battery pack voltage = 37.3V

I checked the following
Continuity test of POT 0 to 5K ohm. Result was smooth transition from 0 to 5.3K OHM when depressing pedal.
Also checked the low current connection on the controler J3 white cable. goes from 0.47V no pedal depressed to 0.34V pedal depressed.

Continuity test on all micro switches. Result all tested working properly.

Solenoid test as per instructions from your website. All checked out fine.
Also checked continuity of resister of 250 OHM. Checked out fine.

Controller test
positive from voltmeter on B+ negative on B- engage solenoid got full pack voltage when pedal depressed 37.3V. 30.4V no pedal depressed
Moved negative lead to M- accelerator not depressed, got 17.2 V. Depressed accelerator, got 23.8V maximum. when you do the test again, it sometimes stays at 17.2 volts pedal depressed or not depressed.

Swapped out the F/R switch with original. Result was the same.

High AMP circuit test

F/R switch in forward position, key on. Tester lead negative on B- terminal. Red lead M- terminal. Engage solenoid. Result 13.2V
Left negative test lead on B-
Red test lead to
A1 on motor 37V
A2 on motor 37V
On F/R switch C terminal 13.2V
On F/R switch B terminal 0V
S1 on motor 2.7 to 4.5V
S2 on motor 0V
On F/R switch D terminal 0V
On F/R switch A terminal 37V
B+ on controller 37V
Controller side large sol terminal 37V
Battery side large sol terminal 37V
B+ terminal on batt pack 37V

Motor test
Removed all cables
Connected cable from S1 to A2
Negative cable on A1 to battery negative
Positive cable on S2 to battery positive
Motor turns no problem

Can someone help??

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Rudi

Hello everybody. I haven't been on the site for a while but I an issue. I have recently upgraded my cart and installed a 7126 AMD motor, 1205 Cutis 500 amp controller, heavy duty solenoid, HD F/R switch and #4 cables. I purchased all this from Buggies unlimited. I wired everything the same as it was before based on the electrical drawing from the manual. After installation, the cart does not run. The tests I performed are as follows. I contacted the tech support at Buggies unlimited and they recomended the the following.

moving cable M- to A1 motor
B+ to 6 oclock F/R switch
F/R A cable to A2 motor
A2 was then with no connections
Result was no power to motor.

Then i performed the following tests from information I received off of your website

Battery pack voltage = 37.3V

I checked the following
Continuity test of POT 0 to 5K ohm. Result was smooth transition from 0 to 5.3K OHM when depressing pedal.
Also checked the low current connection on the controler J3 white cable. goes from 0.47V no pedal depressed to 0.34V pedal depressed.

Continuity test on all micro switches. Result all tested working properly.

Solenoid test as per instructions from your website. All checked out fine.
Also checked continuity of resister of 250 OHM. Checked out fine.

Controller test
positive from voltmeter on B+ negative on B- engage solenoid got full pack voltage when pedal depressed 37.3V. 30.4V no pedal depressed
Moved negative lead to M- accelerator not depressed, got 17.2 V. Depressed accelerator, got 23.8V maximum. when you do the test again, it sometimes stays at 17.2 volts pedal depressed or not depressed.

Swapped out the F/R switch with original. Result was the same.

High AMP circuit test

F/R switch in forward position, key on. Tester lead negative on B- terminal. Red lead M- terminal. Engage solenoid. Result 13.2V
Left negative test lead on B-
Red test lead to
A1 on motor 37V
A2 on motor 37V
On F/R switch C terminal 13.2V
On F/R switch B terminal 0V
S1 on motor 2.7 to 4.5V
S2 on motor 0V
On F/R switch D terminal 0V
On F/R switch A terminal 37V
B+ on controller 37V
Controller side large sol terminal 37V
Battery side large sol terminal 37V
B+ terminal on batt pack 37V

Motor test
Removed all cables
Connected cable from S1 to A2
Negative cable on A1 to battery negative
Positive cable on S2 to battery positive
Motor turns no problem

Can someone help??

The supplier you bought from is not a reputable supplier, and we don't like to mention their name on this site. Now that you know, maybe someone here will get over the shock of you naming that supplier and come to your aid.

I would suspect the viability of any Curtis controller purchased from there. You never know where it was sourced...maybe a flood cart?

[Rudi]

Thank you for letting me know. I was not aware of this at all.

[cgtech]

Do you get full pack voltage on controller small terminal #1 when pedal pressed?

[Rudi]

Thank you for the replay. Yes I had full voltage. What I found was a problem in the F/R switch which was also brand new. However, it was not manufactured properly. It was an aftermarket for sure.

I have put together a presentation that explains the problem and I would like to share it with the community because I am sure that the same could happen to someone else and I can help other people avoid extra cost, time and aggrevation, please review the attached.

[mutant]

this is why some of us strongly recommend carts unlimited...parts are of the highest quality,excellent service and support and the competitive pricing ....

[Rudi]

who could recommend a good 48 volt battery charger. I want to convert my cart from 36V to 48V but want a good charger that is automatic

[scottyb]

Lots of forum members happy with the DPI Accusense. It has a 5 stage charge cycle and goes to a float charge when it is done. American company.