FSIP reman 400 amp curtis

[Spawn]

So nothing was wrong with the cart. ITS a 2007 TXT PDS, 6 inch lift and bigger rims and tires. I had just installed a new set of 2G wires on the batteries a few weeks ago in preparation for the new FSIP Curtis 1206MX 400 amp upgrade controller I was waiting for.

Did the install today and get nothing. All terminals are clean, cart barely moved in reverse for a sec on testing. Now nothing.

Diagnostic mode says 2-1 low voltage, but packs are fully charged. The resistor across the solenoid stays hot the instant you connect the positive battery cable to the pack. I was gonna put the old pack back in to see if I go back to normal, any idea's? using the stock solenoid and resistor BTW for now.

Not sure what to test next. I have verified all terminals are connected correctly per the wiring charts on the PDS and most is plug and play. I cleaned all connections as well. Batteries are a year old 105s.

[mjroman20]

Have you gone through all of their cart checks?
http://www.fsip.biz/Documents/EZ-GO%...%20Control.pdf

Is the solenoid closing? It sounds like its trying to drive the motor through the precharge resistor. I would double check the wiring on the coil, and if you have a diode make sure its oriented the right way.

[Spawn]

So just did some more tests. checked voltage across mains on coil. bat post to pack 38.8 v.
10.6 volts across the solenoid posts. so that's what the resistor is passing all the time when the pack is connected.

jumped yellow wire on coil to pack to engage the solenoid. same 10.6. solenoid isn't contacting. I should get 38 volts coming out and its only the 10 that the resistor is passing through.

again this was a one for one swap of a good running controller for a plug and play Curtis at 400 amps.

I don't think putting the original controller back in is going to change the result of the dead solenoid.

[Spawn]

should that resistor be hot all the time? im wondering if there is a issue with the controller that smoked the solenoid. I don't recall the resistor being hot or energized all the time. Seems like it would be a big draw on the pack and cause it to discharge very fast just making that heat. I thought when the run tow was in tow mode, that killed the power to the controller so it had no draw on the pack at all.

[Spawn]

No connections were removed from the coil during the swap, again you just un bolt the 3connections to the controller, unplug the 4 modular plugs the two spades for the f1 f2, then 3 mounting screws to the heat sink and it slides out the top.

install was reverse of disassembly.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Spawn

should that resistor be hot all the time? im wondering if there is a issue with the controller that smoked the solenoid. I don't recall the resistor being hot or energized all the time. Seems like it would be a big draw on the pack and cause it to discharge very fast just making that heat. I thought when the run tow was in tow mode, that killed the power to the controller so it had no draw on the pack at all.

Sounds like you have a bad controller. Go back to the original controller and see if the cart runs.

The 250Ω resistor connected between the solenoid's two large terminals typically drops about 5V or less and there is about 0.02A flowing at all times, regardless of the position of the Run/Tow switch. The controller's electronics are powered down when Run/Tow is in Tow position, but the resistor across the solenoid's contacts still keep the filter capacitors in the controller charged.

[Spawn]

original

New Style hd

Ordered a new 36V HD Curtis solenoid and resister will be here Tuesday. Shipping warehouse is just across the river.

talked to the sales man and he says its normal for the resistor to stay hot?

[Spawn]

installed the old controller, cart works fine....

called fsip, tech is scratching his head at the code. gonna put the 400 in one more time and see what I get. if its a no go then they are giving me a rma to check it out.

[Spawn]

oh the biggest fyi. the Resistor is air temp with cart in off position and old controller.
The 400 controller had the resistor blazing hot as soon as the pack was connected.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Spawn

installed the old controller, cart works fine....

called fsip, tech is scratching his head at the code. gonna put the 400 in one more time and see what I get. if its a no go then they are giving me a rma to check it out.

If he is worth his salt, he'll figure it out.

Here is what I think: The FSIP controller has more than one problem, but the multiple problems may have a single root cause.

The controller measures the voltage between its B- and B+ terminals.
When pedal switch closes, the controller assumes that it energized the solenoid and the solenoid's contacts closed.
With the pedal switch closed, it looks at the voltage between B- and B+ terminal and if it is below a predetermined voltage, a low voltage flag is set, generating the 2-1 error code.

The voltage on the B+ terminal is actually the voltage stored on the filter capacitors that are electrically located between the B- and B+ buss bars inside the controller. The MOSFETs are electrically located between the M- (marked A1 on PDS controllers) and B- terminals. A shorted MOSFET or several shorted MOSFETs will discharge the capacitors via the A2- terminal (electrically the same as the B+ terminal), through the armature and back to on the M- terminal on the controller and through the shorted MOSFETs to B-.

Since the solenoid contacts are not closing, abnormally high current is passing through the 250Ω resistor on the solenoid's large terminals, causing it to get hot.

I'm not sure why the controller isn't energizing the solenoid.