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Old 06-24-2018, 02:07 PM   #11
BobBoyce
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

Quote:
Originally Posted by beepbeepbloop View Post
You are awesome Bob! I got you email with all the diagnostics. Its really incredible how much info is available from the controller. I wonder if there is a way to interface with it, similar to the OBDII type of interfaces in cars?
Yes, that is what I do. Since the onboard 5V power supply is toast, I have to supply it with 5V externally on the 5V output pins that power the encoders, then the logic section wakes up and begins to communicate. I was able to fully communicate with the MCU and pull the activity logs and error logs. There were older errors in there that I ignored, as they were not relevant to the issue. They were in the 330 to 390 hour range, and were for high pedal disable and motor stall... someone turning the key on while a pedal was not fully up, and trying to climb a steep hill or pushing/pulling something and the motor stopped turning while pedal was applied.

Everything of interest was the Undervolt Cutback at hourmeter 709.9 and after that. The logic section has a large electrolytic capacitor that maintains the 5 volts for a while after the key is turned off. This is why a programming station will stay connected for a while even after the key is turned off. The handset shuts off much sooner because it is powered by a 15V regulator from the 48V keyswitch input. Once the keyswitch (or main 48V) is shut down, the MCU does some housekeeping tasks before shutting off. This includes transfer of prior data from lower memory to higher memory, import of uploaded data from high memory to lower memory, and updating the logs. When a controller is totally destroyed, that housekeeping does not take place. In your case, the 5V power supply was destroyed, but the crowbar prevented damage to the MCU core itself, so it completed its housekeeping before shutting down, preserving logs of everything that happened. It recorded the end of signal from your encoders, throttle, brake, and both halves of the motor speed encoder. It actually recorded 255 attempts to communicate with each of the encoders, the maximum it will record. It will overwrite old attempts and store the last 255 error messages of each type, and the hourmeter readings of when they occured. I saved those log entries, then tried re-establishing normal operation with the test bench. It would not recongize any of the 5V encoder signals from new external encoders, which means the encoder inputs are dead. I tried for 30 minutes to manipulate inputs and trigger outputs... it's telling me it's activating outputs, but the outputs are not activating. Every output has sensor inputs to detect the state of those outputs. Externally manipulating those states is not being read, so even those inputs are dead. It's like a person that has had a spinal cord injury... the brain is fully functional, but the signals in and out of the brain are not communicating with the body. It's paralyzed in an electronic sense. The com port is not affected because it is a direct I/O with the MCU, and is a seperate system from the normal I/O lines. By remotely powering the logic section, I'm essentially putting it on life support, able to communicate with it and read its memory of what happened, but I cannot get it to communicate with anything else outside of the com port. I suspect that all of the interface chips that surround the MCU are fried, and are the reason that it cannot communicate further. The only way to verify this is to order parts and start changing interface chips, and see if that starts waking up the inputs and outputs. I was trying to contact you a few days ago to see what you wanted to do. I sent the email and waited for a response. When I did not get an email response on saturday, I decided to post here to see if you would read the message here and check your email. The decision is yours. Do you want me to continue with an attempt to repair, or do you want to buy that replacement controller you found? The number of parts to replace might make it more econimical to replace, but I won't know that until I price the parts and begin the process. I've not attempted a repair of this magnitude before with a Curtis controller, usually they are brain-dead and not able to communicate with this level of damage. I was suprised that it communicated!

Bob
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:51 PM   #12
beepbeepbloop
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

Wow, what an incredible write-up! Again thanks for your time and attention to date. I think the next step is to buy a replacement controller. Is this something I can get thru you? I'd like to be able to compensate you for all your hard work.

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Old 06-25-2018, 01:57 AM   #13
cgtech
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

I don't think he offers new controllers, but sending a few bucks his way probably wouldn't hurt, if he will accept it.
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Old 06-25-2018, 03:31 AM   #14
BobBoyce
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

cgtech is correct, I don't sell controllers. But I'll sometimes do a swap for a repaired controller when I have one available.
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Old 07-07-2018, 06:13 PM   #15
beepbeepbloop
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

Ok, installed the replacement 48V curtis controller on my 2013 RVX. I *think* i got all the wires re-connected including the solenoid.

Curious - can I use my voltmeter to check if I missed something?

I'm getting 48V across the big red and big black on the solenoid, and 0V across the small red and small black (both with switch on and off). However, when I turn the ignition, I don't hear the solenoid click, or the reverse beeper go on, like it did before my big mistake.

In the front console, I am still getting 0V on the red/black/grey wires, where I was previously getting 48V before shorting them.

I'm still getting 12V on the yellow and grey wires, as I did before.

I have not yet replaced the 5v throttle encoder? hoping I didn't need to.

Can I use my voltmeter to verify I reinstalled the controller correctly and at least rule that part out?

Thanks!!!!
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Old 07-07-2018, 08:10 PM   #16
BobBoyce
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

Quote:
Originally Posted by beepbeepbloop View Post
Ok, installed the replacement 48V curtis controller on my 2013 RVX. I *think* i got all the wires re-connected including the solenoid.

Curious - can I use my voltmeter to check if I missed something?

I'm getting 48V across the big red and big black on the solenoid, and 0V across the small red and small black (both with switch on and off). However, when I turn the ignition, I don't hear the solenoid click, or the reverse beeper go on, like it did before my big mistake.

In the front console, I am still getting 0V on the red/black/grey wires, where I was previously getting 48V before shorting them.

I'm still getting 12V on the yellow and grey wires, as I did before.

I have not yet replaced the 5v throttle encoder? hoping I didn't need to.

Can I use my voltmeter to verify I reinstalled the controller correctly and at least rule that part out?

Thanks!!!!
Yes, a DVM (Digital VoltMeter) will help you track voltages, but DO NOT put meter probes onto the SOC meter socket connections. That will repeat blowing the controller, even if you just lightly touch the probe across the 2 adjacent terminals for the grey wire (logic section of the controller) and the red wire (+48V). They are really close together and it's hard to avoid contacting both when trying to read either one of them. Check under the run/tow switch cover, there are 2 fuses under caps attached to the plastic cover. One has a pair of yellow wires that feeds the keyswitch, and one with a pair of red wires that feeds the motor brake and other circuits. Check those fuses before going any further.
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Old 07-08-2018, 12:48 AM   #17
beepbeepbloop
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

That was it, one fuse was blown. I swapped in a new one and am now back up and running!

Can't say enough thanks to Bob for all his help!!!!

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk
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Old 07-08-2018, 06:05 AM   #18
BobBoyce
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Default Re: EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my

Quote:
Originally Posted by beepbeepbloop View Post
That was it, one fuse was blown. I swapped in a new one and am now back up and running!

Can't say enough thanks to Bob for all his help!!!!
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