Need help identifying this year and model cart exactly

[twilliams81]

Here is the serial number plate and pics of the cart...the last two digits are 93



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[rib33024]

That's a 93 Marathon controller cart. Electric 36 volts. 4 Wheel

[jeremy98]

Make :Marathon
Propulsion : GasElectric
Sub Model : Electric 4-wheel Marathon
Year : 1993
You can find most of EZ-GO serial number and parts at the link below. That is where I looked.
https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/

[twilliams81]

Nevermind I figured it out...it’s a ‘93 XI-775


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[twilliams81]

Having an issue...got a solenoid click but no movement. I know that’s a broad diagnosis but the service manuals aren’t very helpful so any direction to go in first would be helpful


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[jeremy98]

I would start by cleaning the ends of the cables with some light sandpaper. This will help get the rust and corrosion off of them thus getting a better connection. Once you have done this, double check that you are getting battery pack voltage accross the solenoid to the controller. The solenoid could be clicking but be internally welded and only putting a small amount of power to the control. I would also consider replacing the tip of that one cable as it looks like it has some broken wires in it.

[twilliams81]

Already replaced the solenoid because it looked rough and still no movement and only a click. When I hold the accelerator down I’m noticing heat buildup and smoke on B- on the controller as well as the bottom lug on the F&R switch. I’m thinking I may have a motor issue


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[twilliams81]

Has anyone else had this same issue? Solenoid click but no movement? If so has it been motor related??


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[nickdalzell1]

Controller failure if the motor tests good. Continuity should exist between S1 and S2 and A1 and A2.

I'd look under the car, where the controller is. A lot of times the side of the controller under the car just blows off when it fries. F/N/R switch could also be bad or melted.

When you have the car on jack stands, switch in F, key on, gas pedal down, what voltage do you get between B+ and M- on the control? (they're marked BTW) If you got zero, either the control or the forward/reverse switch is bad. if you got ~ pack voltage with pedal to floor, motor may be gone.

[twilliams81]

Ok I tested the motor and got continuity between the motor post like you said and I also jumped it off and got movement (although ALOT of sparking in the process) LoL. When I did what you said: key on, switch in Forward, pedal to the floor...I’m getting less than a volt between M- and B+ and the motor is acting like it wants to turn albeit less than a 1/4 turn and I’m still getting heat build up and smoke on the F&R switch post that I’m assuming is the forward post. I’m now leaning toward the F&R switch but visual inspection looks good but I know that can be deceiving. Thoughts?


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