Precedent Professional stops but starts again if accelerator raised and redepressed

[Sergio]

For my next trick I removed the two wire plug from the MCOR and bridged them. Initially it appeared like we'd struck happy days and the cart definitely appeared to run for longer but them it reverted to exactly the same issue.

Pin 6 - Green Wire.Pedal Up 0V, Pedal Down, OL Voltage outside range

Based on the symptoms above and assuming the problem reverted to the same issue while the two MCOR pins were still bridged, you must be losing power on the blue wire going into the MCOR two pin connector.

Since the Solenoid did not click but the pin #10 had power, the issue may be the sonic-weld (fused wire junction) that splits the key switch power to the MCOR (see diagram).

[Rob_C]

Thanks Sergio,

Yes the problem still existed with the MCRO micro switch wires bridged. It appeared to improve for perhaps the first 30 seconds of driving but then reverted to cutting out as you drove.

During testing today, the solenoid clicks on but almost immediately clicks off again regardless of how far the pedal is depressed or if you just maintain pedal position as soon as it clicks on.

The pedal down readings I posted were read immediately the solenoid switched on but in some cases I had to repeat several times to read them because the time between solenoid on and off is so short.

Last time I was there, sometimes when the pedal was depressed the motor would run up to a reasonable speed, then the solenoid would cut out, other times it would click off almost immediately. Today it was "on then off" about as fast as you can read those three words.

Appreciate the response.

Cheers,
Rob

[mrgolf]

Have you checked to wires on the key switch or the tow run and FNR .

[Sergio]

Assuming the meter was set to the correct setting when you measured the Pin #6, I would start by replacing that sonic-weld with a crimped connection.

Controller Pin #6 is a direct wire to the MCOR green wire that You jumpered to Blue wire at the MCOR 2-pin connector.

That pin #6 had no voltage on the test and jumpering the MCOR did not solve the problem.

Since there was power to Pin #10 at the Controller and that comes from the same sonic-weld, the issue could be corrosion causing a high resistance connection at the sonic-weld where power from the key switch is splitting to those locations.

[Rob_C]

Thanks again Sergio,

The meter is a good quality (Fluke) auto ranging and was set to DC volts, nothing was changed between tests and anything that seemed odd I redid more than once to be sure of the result.

I went back this afternoon and after I'd double checked everything, including resistances of each length of wire that would include the sonic welded joint and all tested ok with minimal resistance (0.4 Ohms max). Then he mentioned that his neighbour across the road has the same model and year cart.

He borrowed it and I swapped in the neighbour's controller. Now the cart runs and drives as it should.

It does sound like replacing the sonic welded connection is a good preventative measure. Do you know where within the cart the actual connection is located please as it's not obviously visible. I assume it's in front of the batteries in the double walled section where the F/R switch mounts?

Thanks again for your continued help,
Rob

[Rob_C]

Originally Posted by mrgolf

Have you checked to wires on the key switch or the tow run and FNR .

Thanks mrgolf,

I had done prior to today.

Cheers,
Rob

[Sergio]

I am not sure where it is located in your cart, but it is inside the main harness loom between the batteries (closer to the front) before it splits to the thinner harnesses that goes to the pedals and to the dash.

I am glad the new controller appears to have fixed the issue, but it does not explain the lack of power on pin #6 since it is an input directly from the MCOR micro-switch and that voltage is not affected by the Controller.

[Rob_C]

Thanks Sergio,

I don't really understand why it goes with the known good controller either. There was no corrosion to any of the plugs at the controller so it should have been making good contact and there was only 0.4 Ohms resistance in the wire from Pin 6 to the MCOR

I'll chase up a new controller for it today.

All the best,
Rob

[Rob_C]

The new controller turned up today, fitted it and the cart runs as it should. Thought I'd add this for anyone searching the forum.

Thanks for the help everyone.